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Re: How to fill up a gap for a warped sliding door?
Originally Posted by Mr Sully
X2^^^^^. Lowes has 1x2's for cheap and they will cut & rip one so its 3/4 thick by your 14" high.. Drill 3 holes so it doesn't split and bolt/washer & nut it. You can spray it white too.
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Sounds good ....
I wondered if he could have a look around for a piece of white plastic now we know the Viv colour ... I keep loads of bits and pieces in the shed for jobs like this
Maybe find something from a window fitters place .
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CALM Pythons (03-15-2017),redshepherd (03-15-2017)
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Re: How to fill up a gap for a warped sliding door?
Originally Posted by redshepherd
I just drew that image, because taking a picture is more of a hassle haha. I'll post something.
You truly are an artist!! In today's tech world most would snap a pic, you drew it out. I honestly love that!!!! Keep the arts alive!!!
I think your best bet is adding a "scab" to the wall where the gap is. Get a piece of 3'4" scrap (Home Depot or Lowes often have some pieces kicking around) or something like it, maybe some "finish trim". I would bring the pic with you and they will most likely just get you what you need. Bring the measurements and they will probably cut it to fit for you. Then simply fasten it to the inside of the enclosure to block the gap. Liquid nail or hot glue and a few bolts/washers. Just choose the right length and finish to avoid any rough edges exposed to your snake. Using a few "L brackets" will tighten the enclosure up and prevent further movement, spreading gaps, etc...
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How to fill up a gap for a warped sliding door?
^^ I think that's what I suggested using different words.
That's kinda funny !
LOL
Last edited by Zincubus; 03-15-2017 at 09:01 AM.
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Re: How to fill up a gap for a warped sliding door?
Originally Posted by Zincubus
^^ I think that's what I suggested using different words.
That's kinda funny !
LOL
Yeah, we are on the same page!!
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OK, now that I've seen the pic, my original idea will not work. From the pic I really cannot tell if it is actually warped or leaning. Put a straight edge on the outer side and see if there is a gap. If there is you are going to need to replace that side. I would try to contact the company that made it. They may send you the piece for free. If not you need to get a new one cut at home depot. Regardless if it is warped or leaning I would reinforce the entire enclosure with the brackets like Zinc said. If you don't think you can do it yourself, find someone that can and buy them lunch or something. I help out people with little stuff all the time, as long as I get food and or a six pack I call it even.
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Re: How to fill up a gap for a warped sliding door?
Originally Posted by Zincubus
Sounds good ....
I wondered if he could have a look around for a piece of white plastic now we know the Viv colour ... I keep loads of bits and pieces in the shed for jobs like this
Maybe find something from a window fitters place .
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
He sure could, they make tons of plastic pieces for the bathroom. Everything from shower enclosure trim to different styles of drip edges. Good idea.
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Name: Christian
0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
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1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)
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I do a lot of fabricating of enclosures. I'd put money on it that the whole thing is leaning and creating a gap on both sides. don't store heavy things on top of such a structure! from the picture, the joint looks stressed. in this case, you need to use some kind of angle brace and square up the enclosure from the inside corners. use stainless steel everything, at least stainless steel bolts and washers (much better than screws on melamine, the washers distribute the pressure enough that the melamine is less likely to fall apart), if you can as regular steel will rust and look like crap in short order... been there, done that. the metal angle brace is a fine option but not likely available in stainless so you probably want to coat it with something so it won't rust, or you could go with resin, like trecks and cut a right triangle out of it and use screws and washers from the outside. melamine is wonderfully cheap but requires reinforcement of some sort.
Last edited by Slither Seeker; 03-15-2017 at 01:37 PM.
"Keep in mind I am sharing what I have learned and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to weigh varying perspectives... Doing it "correctly" often means balancing what works for others with what works for you, given your parameters and observations."
Family Critter List: Bumblebee BP, Fire Spider BP, Brazillian Rainbow Boa, Planted Aquarium, Red-Foot Tortoise, Dwarf Hamster, Holland Lop Rabbit, 6 egg laying chickens, 37 in freezer camp, last but not least Flap Jack, our Pit mix rescue dog who keeps everyone in line.
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Just replying quickly and I'll read and reply to all the suggestions later- the left side isn't leaning and doesn't have a gap. It fits snug with the side from top to bottom. So I'm figuring that only the right side of the top panel is curving for some reason.
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If you suspect one panel is curving, put a straight edge up against it to test. I'm still with the people who suggest leaning. Do you have a t-square, or a framer's square? You can also measure the corners on the diagonal. If the structure has lost its ninety degree angles, the measurements will differ.
When Melamine warps, it tends to look swollen, and the seams split. It maybe that there is something going on from the inside, a join that wasn't sealed, and got wet?
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Sorry I was out at lunch- thanks for the suggestions, I'll see what I can do! I'm assuming all the "he's" are supposed to be me? I'm flattered that I sound like a dude. LOL
I'll put a level on the left side, but I'm 99% sure it's a 90 degree angle, because the glass door has no gap when closed, not even a little bit (or else I would have noticed and posted about it too). And there's no way for glass to warp. I mean, I can take a pic for proof, but lol.
It sounds like what would work best is buying those L metal support thingies and putting it on the right side, and then filling up the gap with a wood piece. I assume putting it on the outside and not the inside, right?
Originally Posted by craigafrechette
You truly are an artist!! In today's tech world most would snap a pic, you drew it out. I honestly love that!!!! Keep the arts alive!!!
thanks! It's more convenient for me, because I draw on the computer for a living.
Last edited by redshepherd; 03-15-2017 at 05:43 PM.
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