Hognose Humidity/Health Question

[cron14]

I apologize for posting a new thread on this but I think I figured out my mistake. I have an accurate probe that I use inside my Hognose 6qt tub and I use a heat gun. I honestly was not concerned about humidity and use a small water bowl so I figured the humidity was relatively low. However, I put the accurite thermometer into Penny's enlosure and it was reading 60% which I knew was too high. I have not seen humidity percentages when it comes to hoggies but it seems like 30-40% is the best bet. Could the high humidity cause my Hoggie to go off feed? I have since switched out to an even smaller water bowl and now the humidity sits around 40-45%. Is that still high? Also I've noticed a brownish hue near the bottom of my hoggies neck (right below the head) is this a sign of a RI? I use a herpstat to measure temps and while the majority of the hot side is 88-92 degrees I have measured spots with a temp go at 95 (only within the last two days as I have read on UK forums that providing a 95-96 degree hotpot will get them to eat) Could it be a burn? Again I apologize for another post but I just want to get my girl eating regularly because this has been a stressful 3 months. (she has only eaten twice for me)
Edit: I have added a picture to my member gallery of the brownish mark I posted about.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Humidity is a tad high ambient humidity is more than enough for them so about 20%/30%

I won't comment on the neck issue since there is no picture.

This temperatures are a bit high I usually don't recommend higher than 92-94 for hogs even those having issue feeding, burns only occur when the heat is unregulated, the t-stat fails or the probe is dislodge.

Now as far as eating issue, it's not uncommon for some to go off feed also it is generally more common with males not as much with females.

What is the size of this hognose? (weight preferably)

Do you have at least a good 1 to 2 inches of bedding (aspen or sanichip)?

What food have you offered and how (Do you leave the prey until morning or do you use a tong and give up when she is not taking it off the tong?)

While a step backward have you try pre-scenting and if so with what?

Are you sure it is a female?

[cron14]

Humidity is a tad high ambient humidity is more than enough for them so about 20%/30%

I won't comment on the neck issue since there is no picture.

This temperatures are a bit high I usually don't recommend higher than 92-94 for hogs even those having issue feeding, burns only occur when the heat is unregulated, the t-stat fails or the probe is dislodge.

Now as far as eating issue, it's not uncommon for some to go off feed also it is generally more common with males not as much with females.

What is the size of this hognose? (weight preferably)

Do you have at least a good 1 to 2 inches of bedding (aspen or sanichip)?

What food have you offered and how (Do you leave the prey until morning or do you use a tong and give up when she is not taking it off the tong?)

While a step backward have you try pre-scenting and if so with what?

Are you sure it is a female?

I know you have no idea who I am but I was hoping you would respond lol. I posted an edit to the original post where I uploaded a picture of the mark in question to my member gallery. My probe has not failed so far because in addition to my probe I use a heat gun to measure the hot spot so that is good to know. The breeder I got her from said she was a she, sorry to be redundant, and I honestly would not be able to probe her myself. The breeder told me she was born in July of 2016. When I got her she was 7g empty and now she's about 8g. The breeder also said she was eating regularly on unscented pinkies. I have about 1 inch of aspen, some places being closer to 1 1/2 inch. I have offered pretty much everything in every way which is why this has been so frustrating for me. I have tried braining, live (once), tuna scented, chicken broth scented, outside the enclosure in a dark, quiet place, left overnight, left in enclosure during the day, pinky head, and even hard boiled eggs. She took a chicken broth scented pinky in a small plastic container covered on December 13th, about one week after getting her. Then she started refusing and finally took a tuna scented pinky in the same small, plastic container but I didnt even get a chance to close the lid before she was eating it. (lights were on and I was standing right there) That was on January 21st. Since I've had her shes defacated twice and shed once. Handling has been limited to moving her to the small plastic container and cleaning since I don't want to stress her any further while she's refusing.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

At that size it is very tricky there are a few things you can try.

I breed hognose and usually babies that small I keep them in tubs that are roughly 12”x3”x2” , I have also kept them in the past in tubs that were 11.5”x7.38”x3.25” , now I do not do this myself but many breeders will keep their hatchling in 6.75” deli cup so that’s something that may be worth a try.
As far as sexing they are actually visually sexed and trust me breeder make mistakes even some very experienced breeder.

As far s food here are a few more things you can sent with, Anchovies (I had great success with that), toad, and hard boiled egg, you can even offer your hognose some hard boiled egg on it’s own many will actually take it. Always offer food in the enclosure and leave overnight at a young age they are not that good at taking food of the tong.

Next step if all fed considering the size and how long it has been since the last meal, it will have to be assist feeding which is no fun for either the snake or the owner. Usually it is done with mice tail and the hardest part is to get the mouth to open by pushing the mice tail inside the mouth very gently, must be patient and gentle.

The color does not seem like anything I would worry about consider the setup.

[cron14]

At that size it is very tricky there are a few things you can try.

I breed hognose and usually babies that small I keep them in tubs that are roughly 12”x3”x2” , I have also kept them in the past in tubs that were 11.5”x7.38”x3.25” , now I do not do this myself but many breeders will keep their hatchling in 6.75” deli cup so that’s something that may be worth a try.
As far as sexing they are actually visually sexed and trust me breeder make mistakes even some very experienced breeder.

As far s food here are a few more things you can sent with, Anchovies (I had great success with that), toad, and hard boiled egg, you can even offer your hognose some hard boiled egg on it’s own many will actually take it. Always offer food in the enclosure and leave overnight at a young age they are not that good at taking food of the tong.

Next step if all fed considering the size and how long it has been since the last meal, it will have to be assist feeding which is no fun for either the snake or the owner. Usually it is done with mice tail and the hardest part is to get the mouth to open by pushing the mice tail inside the mouth very gently, must be patient and gentle.

The color does not seem like anything I would worry about consider the setup.

before getting her I read through probably 20 pages of the hognose forum and always found your advice incredibly informative so I really appreciate it. i actually just ordered two mini hides from reptile basics to try and help her feel more secure as she never uses the hides I made for her and prefers burrowing in the aspen. I'll give her a few days with those, drop the humidity, bring the hot spot back down to 92 and pray it all goes well lol