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  1. #11
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    May I ask what the morph in the first post is please !!?

    It's a stunner !!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




  2. #12
    BPnet Veteran BluuWolf's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Quote Originally Posted by Zincubus View Post
    May I ask what the morph in the first post is please !!?

    It's a stunner !!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Coral Glow/Banana I'm pretty sure


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  4. #13
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Quote Originally Posted by Zincubus View Post
    May I ask what the morph in the first post is please !!?

    It's a stunner !!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thanks it's a Coral glow.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Deborah Stewart


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  6. #14
    Registered User EzraBlade's Avatar
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    Got my boy into a small RUB. He's gotten through through his first shed so far, gonna get him a live rat fuzzy tomorrow morning. I'm glad you wrote this. I am feeling a lot more secure than I was a few days ago, and hopefully so's my little guy.

  7. #15
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Quote Originally Posted by EzraBlade View Post
    Got my boy into a small RUB. He's gotten through through his first shed so far, gonna get him a live rat fuzzy tomorrow morning. I'm glad you wrote this. I am feeling a lot more secure than I was a few days ago, and hopefully so's my little guy.
    They are nocturnal so I feed mine evenings ....


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  8. #16
    BPnet Veteran Godzilla78's Avatar
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    This is great advice, thank you Deborah. I just wanted to add, that the tub size is not as important as the hide size and other details for security. I started my 1 month old tiny hatchling in a very large, adult-sized tub, but with tiny hides to choose from and lots of substrate to burrow in. It was also in a rack, so it was very dark adding more security. He flourished and I switch him to thawed rats immediately. He is growing like a weed and a whopping 188 grams at 6 months old.

    So, if you don't have a tiny tub, I would say this detail is not as important for security as is:
    1) tiny hides as Deborah recommends,
    2) a dark areas, no big "display" cases, and keep dark by blacking out the sides or keeping in a rack shelf.
    3) substrate to burrow in as Deb recommends.

    Theoretically, if you all you had a was a huge 60 gallon aquarium, as long as the temps and humidity were good, and all the sides were covered for darkness, and there was plenty of tiny hides and clutter, and substrate to burrow in, the hatchling would do fine, as it would have the exact same security needs met, just like in the wild.
    Last edited by Godzilla78; 01-06-2018 at 05:06 PM.

  9. #17
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Is a 14 3/8 L x 8 1/4" W x 6" H to small of a container for a 106 gram BP? or is that a good size?

  10. #18
    BPnet Senior Member tttaylorrr's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Quote Originally Posted by BPOwner99 View Post
    Is a 14 3/8 L x 8 1/4" W x 6" H to small of a container for a 106 gram BP? or is that a good size?
    good size, but will be outgrown quickly.
    4.4 ball python
    1.0 Albino 0.1 Coral Glow 0.1 Super Cinnamon paradox 1.0 Piebald 0.1 Pastel Enchi Leopard het Piebald 1.0 Coral Glow het Piebald

    1.0 corn snake
    1.0 Hypo

    1.0 crested gecko
    0.1 ????

    0.1 cat
    0.1 Maine Coon mix

    0.1 human ✌︎

  11. #19
    BPnet Senior Member CALM Pythons's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python won t eat - My BP is stressed - hatchling 101

    Quote Originally Posted by Deborah View Post
    Every year especially when baby season is upon us, many people become proud new owners of their very first hatchling Ball Python, sadly more often than not the excitement often turn to frustration and worry when their new acquired pet refuse to eat for them.

    The good news is that YOU can get your animal to eat on it’s own but for that you will often have to forget everything you read, everything you were told, forget about what YOU want or like and be open to a PROVEN temporary method that has help many get their animal to feed for them.

    Ball Pythons unlike other species MUST have their needs met to a T, it is very important especially with an hatchling getting used to a new environment, among those needs SECURITY is the single most important one and should always be kept in mind.

    So how can you provide your hatchling with an optimum setup that will get you on tract rapidly, leading to a more enjoyable first time experience?

    If your hatchling is less than 200/250 grams here is what I always recommend.

    Use a 6 quart tub as enclosure; remember this is TEMPORARY, ideally until the animal reached 200/250 grams. Whether you dislike tubs or have the perfect 10 gallons setup ready to go it does not matter what matter it to provide the optimum setup which means cramped.

    Use aspen as bedding, aspen will allow your new pet to bury himself in the bedding offering added security should it be needed.

    Use 1 plastic flower pot saucer as hide (6 inches in diameter), they are very low profile with the top touching your BP’s body, which will provide an even more secure environment

    Provide a small water dish.

    Provide temperatures of 76/78 on the cool side and 86/88 on the warm side (no higher) – You will obviously need a UTH, a thermostat and a reliable digital thermometer to achieve those requirements.

    Provide a humidity level of 50%/60%

    Once you bring your BP home and place him in his new setup, LEAVE HIM alone, I know it is tempting to handle your new friend but it is best to let him acclimate to his new environment until he eats for you.

    So now your BP has been home for a week and you have not handle him so what now? Well now is feeding time. Remember getting the animal to eat for you is the priority, switching is not so even if you prefer F/T right now it is irrelevant unless you bought an animal that was eating f/t previously, same goes with rats if the animal was feeding on rats offer rats if not feeding should be as followed:

    Offer a live mouse (the ideal size will be equal the girth size of your snake) in the tub (do not feed outside the tub), close the lid and remove if un-eaten after 10/15 min. It might not work the first time around and in some extreme cased (un-started animals, picky eaters, rehab) it might take more than one try and additional little tips, but it can be done, and worry and frustration can become a thing of the past.

    This setup will also solve stress issues that can build up over time in very young animals even if they are eating.

    If you have additional question you can PM me, I will be happy to share additional tips and trick I might not have covered here.

    Finally pictures are worth a 1000 words

    Ideal setup



    Ideal hide for above setup

    I wish part of the Site Membership requirements included having to read all the Stickies.. Like a probationary period.. Then a 10 question quiz.. If people can answer the basics (cool/hot temps, Humidity, Feeding guidelines and some common sense) then the Full site functions open up for them to use. Its absolutely insane what I've read over the last week. People do more research when they want to buy a TV or Cell Phone for cripe sake.
    Name: Christian
    0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
    0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
    1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
    1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
    ----------
    1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
    1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)

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  13. #20
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    Can you attach picture of how you have the uth set up on this? or will it not melt the plastic? Thanks

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