Young BP - New to us - Not eating!

[ajpeacockk]

Help please!

First time BP owner and already concerned.
We got her from a breeder at a reptile super show in LA on 1/09/16.

Like an idiot, I didn't ask about her age or eating habits.

She is only 65g and hasn't eaten.

We got frozen hoppers, and the first time we attempted to feed (about 5 days after getting her) she struck at it, coiled, but since she grabbed it sideways and couldn't get it in, She eventually gave up.

But we tried again 5 days later and she shows no interest.
Tried one more time on the 21st (3 days ago) and no luck again.

We have been trying in her enclosure.

She's in a 20G L with 3 hides, fake leaves, and a water dish.
Hottest hide:94
Middle hide: 83
Cool hide: 74

Humidity 40-60%

Kept pretty dark.
Wasn't active first week but very active now.
We didn't handle at all first week.

Have handled 3 times or so now though.

Shed once about 7 days ago.

Has.been seen partially in the water.
Didn't handle near times of feeding.

Tried with frozen hopper as live will be last resort.
Heated it up in Ziploc, dried it with paper towel, uses gloves the whole time to not get human scent on it, tried enriching with tongs.

Once we left it in there but she didn't care about it.

Advice??

[Smitty33]

20L is a little big for a hatchling, really a 10 gallon is better. Cover three sides with dark paper or background from pet store. Don't handle at all unless you absolutely have too until you get 2 meals in her.

[Slim]

Sometimes a small pin hole in the cranium of the F/T prey item helps. Try a little nail like you'd use for hanging a small picture. Just poke it through the top of the skull to expose some of the brain matter. A little bit messy, but often effective. The smell can stimulate a strike response, and will help guide your snake to the proper end of the prey to start eating. Good luck

[Albert Clark]

This is typical hatchling behavior. What you should do is both of the above recommendations excluding the 10 gallon tank. You really need a 6 qt shoebox tub with two tight fitting hides and a substrate of 100% cypress mulch or Aspen shavings. But since you are dealing with the 20 gallon tank and the python has already attempted to feed in there I would be reluctant to swap her out into a new enviornment at this stage of the game. Live hopper is the prey of choice with all hatchlings to get them started. Cover the exposed sides of the tank and clutter it up with crumpled paper towel. No handling at all and try feeding at night and in a darkened room. Hope this works.

[ajpeacockk]

I don't actually know how old it is. Just assuming based on how small.

Ill try three pin hole and paper on sides. We will continue to not handle.

If she doesn't attempt at all in the next 2 weeks, I'll move her to a tub.

I'll keep you updated! (Btw is there a way to get an email when someone comments on a thread I post? )

[Sauzo]

Like Albert said, I would just clutter up the tank with plants and give it a bunch of hides. The size isn't necessarily the issue, its the big open spaces that will make a baby scared as open spaces usually equal a predator having easy pickins. And pretty much what the others said about covering 3 sides, no handling etc. I had Dottie in a 40g when she was only about 100g but I gave her 5 hides and those silk vines you buy from Michaels craft store and she was fine. Now shes just over 4' and I need to get her an AP T8 lol.

[LittleTreeGuy]

(Btw is there a way to get an email when someone comments on a thread I post? )

Yes, down below, there is a checkbox for "subscription". Check that box and then in the drop down menu beside it, select how you would like to be notified.

[ajpeacockk]

Yes, her first week with us she definitely DIDNT have enough hiding spots and never came out of the one hide she had.

Now she's got 3 and a bunch of leaves and vines and she's MUCH more active.

I covered the sides.
I will try to feed her again in a few days.

Can I confirm that this is correct?:
thaw the mouse in a ziploc in water, then put it in some almost boiling water for a few minutes, then offer by dangling?

[M.P.C]

How are you measuring temps and humidit?

[LittleTreeGuy]

Yes, her first week with us she definitely DIDNT have enough hiding spots and never came out of the one hide she had.

Now she's got 3 and a bunch of leaves and vines and she's MUCH more active.

I covered the sides.
I will try to feed her again in a few days.

Can I confirm that this is correct?:
thaw the mouse in a ziploc in water, then put it in some almost boiling water for a few minutes, then offer by dangling?

Yes... one method for thawing frozen prey:
1. Put in a small Ziploc baggie and submerge the baggie/prey in luke warm water for 10 minutes or so. Until the mouse/rat is "squishy" behind the head.
2. Then put the baggie in hot tap water for 5-10 minutes.
3. Remove prey from baggie with tongs and present to the snake. I would not do this using your hands, as you could get tagged. Just hold the mouse/rat by it's back with tongs and wiggle it in front of the snake. It will likely strike it within 30 seconds. If not, you can leave the prey in the cage with the snake for a few hours or overnight (never do this with live prey). Some people say their bp will only take food this way, but I have never had to do it.

Other have found that taking the thawed mouse out of the baggie and holding it under a blow-dryer for a few minutes to really warm it up helps as well.

As asked above, what are your cage temperatures and humidity like and what are you using to heat and control them? an active snake isn't always the most happy snake. It could be searching for food, trying to get away from a place that's too hot, trying to find a warmer place, or just exploring.