Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 2,742

5 members and 2,737 guests
Most users ever online was 6,337, 01-24-2020 at 04:30 AM.

» Today's Birthdays

Menelas (42)

» Stats

Members: 75,083
Threads: 248,525
Posts: 2,568,640
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, NopeRopeMD
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23
  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    01-21-2016
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Please help! Aggressive baby ball python!

    I'm having a hard time with my baby ball python. I got her from a pet store in October and handled her every day for the first month. After that, she became severely dehydrated and spent 3 days with a vet being cared for. Ever since I got her back, she's been aggressive and tries to strike me every time I go near her. I still take her out once in awhile since I want her to get used to me, but I'm becoming afraid to take her out. She even strikes the side of the tank when I walk by. I would love any advice as I'm really upset and want her to be friendly like my 7 year old ball python!

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to AlabasterDynamo For This Useful Post:

    Albert Clark (01-21-2016)

  3. #2
    BPnet Lifer Albert Clark's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-22-2015
    Location
    Spotsylvania, Va.
    Posts
    4,650
    Thanks
    6,518
    Thanked 3,295 Times in 2,139 Posts
    Images: 39

    Re: Please help! Aggressive baby ball python!

    What type of enclosure is he living in and what are the temps ,ambient and hot spot and humidity? How much does he weigh and has he taken a meal recently? Some of the aggression is typical hatchling behavior. We need to focus on some of the environmental conditions first.
    Last edited by Albert Clark; 01-21-2016 at 06:51 PM.
    Stay in peace and not pieces.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Albert Clark For This Useful Post:

    wolfy-hound (01-21-2016)

  5. #3
    Registered User Jordan H's Avatar
    Join Date
    10-13-2014
    Posts
    122
    Thanks
    33
    Thanked 74 Times in 57 Posts

    Re: Please help! Aggressive baby ball python!

    This

  6. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    01-21-2016
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Re: Please help! Aggressive baby ball python!

    I do not know her weight as I do not have a way to weigh her. She is very small and if I had to guess, I'd say maybe about 100-150g. She eats a frozen fuzzy once every week like clockwork. She has never refused food when "due" to eat but does not show interest in eating more than that as of right now. She is in a 10 gallon tank with incandescent day bulbs that are on for 12 hours during the day, and just ceramic heat on for 12 hours at night. According to the gauges I have, the humidity is at about 65% and the heat is about 80 degrees during the day (closer to 90 in her basking spot) and 70-75 degrees at night. She has a water container that's large enough for her to fit in easily, a completely dark and opaque hide box, a basking rock (not heated. Just right under the lamp) as well as some pieces of smooth drift wood in the enclosure. She is in her own bedroom with a separate thermostat (she shares it with a chair and a desk only), so it is quiet in there and stays at a good temperature for her 24/4. I was thinking about maybe blocking out the sides and back of the tank so that it's not completely clear and reflective. That seems like it may be confusing.

  7. #5
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-28-2006
    Posts
    24,845
    Thanks
    6,116
    Thanked 20,811 Times in 9,584 Posts
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images: 6

    Re: Please help! Aggressive baby ball python!

    You need to feed her more and meet her husbandry need to a T. Heat should constent 24/7 and stable 75/80 on the cool side and 86/90 on the warm side, temps should not drop at night.

    BP are not forgiven and if you do not do both those thing this is exactly what will happen.

    At 150 grams your BP should be eating adult mice or rat pups, you are UNDER FEEDING this animal. BP are started out of the egg on hopper mice or rat crawler so as you can see the prey size is inappropriate.

    So stop handling that animal, do some research on proper care, addressed what need to be addressed.

    Also remember that this is an hatchling and that they are more defensive also obviously there is more here.

    Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stewart_Reptiles; 01-27-2016 at 01:16 PM.
    Deborah Stewart


  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Stewart_Reptiles For This Useful Post:

    Albert Clark (01-27-2016),GoingPostal (01-29-2016)

  9. #6
    Registered User M.P.C's Avatar
    Join Date
    03-02-2015
    Location
    mays landing, Nj
    Posts
    689
    Thanks
    139
    Thanked 300 Times in 221 Posts
    Also sounds like you never gave the little guy the time he needs to get accustomed witch could be adding to the problem along with the brights lights, your temps should be steady 24/7 as best as possible

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to M.P.C For This Useful Post:

    Albert Clark (01-27-2016)

  11. #7
    Registered User
    Join Date
    10-14-2015
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    63
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 41 Times in 28 Posts
    I would bump up the nighttime temps and you need a hide on the cooler side of the enclosure too. It might take her some time, but it should settle down. My albino was very jumpy and defensive at first, but settled down nicely. Just make sure your husbandry is spot on. Good luck!
    Last edited by rockonjp76; 01-27-2016 at 01:13 PM.
    1.0 Spider Ball
    1.0
    Albino Ball
    1.0
    Cinnamon Mojav​e Ball
    1.0 Red Blood '18

  12. #8
    BPnet Veteran LittleTreeGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    11-12-2015
    Location
    Waynesburg, Pa
    Posts
    811
    Thanks
    138
    Thanked 360 Times in 268 Posts
    As the others have said, there are several different things you can work on... From reading the others' posts, I'll try to lay them out for you :

    1. Stop handling the snake every day. While you want to get the snake used to you, it needs some time in it's own home, to not be botherd, to learn the new environment and to know it's not being threatened there. I would say, aside from checking on it, cleaning up any big messes, and giving fresh water, don't put your hands in the tank. Feeding day, present the food and then leave the snake be. Do this for 2 weeks. You'll have a good 20 years to handle the snake and to get to know it. Take a couple weeks to let the snake adjust.
    2. Get a digital kitchen scale. They are under $20 and can be found on ebay or at walmart or other stores and online. Find one that weighs in grams. Then you can weigh your snake and know what size prey you need. Do this until you are comfortable with eye-balling the size prey you need.
    3. Feed the appropriate size prey. You say you are feeding frozen fuzzies. Are you using rats or mice? Fuzzy rats would be about right, but fuzzy mice are too small. You should be giving the snake small to medium mice or fuzzy rats at a minimum every 5-7 days.
    4. Heat - You can use an incandecent bulb to help heat the tank, but you would be better off in my opnion if you invested in a thermostat and some tape or Under Tank Heat mat that would be connected to the thermostat. This can be used to give your snake a hot spot around 90 degrees on the bottom of your tank, where your snake is laying. I just don't think there is a safe way to do that with an incandescent bulb and ceramic heater. The Ceramic heat is good for ambient temps, but a UTH is still a good thing to add.
    5. Light - "IF" you are just using the incandescent bulb for adding light, you can get rid of it. As long as the snake can differientiate between night and day, there is no need for extra light.
    6. Humidity - With a glass tank, it can be hard to maintain a good humity level. Try covering the screen top as much as possible with plastic wrap or aluminum foil. Foil is good because if it touches a heat source, it won't melt or catch on fire.
    7. Enclosure - You are correct in maybe covering two-three sides of the tank. You can use decorative stuff like you find in pet stores, or just use some brown or black construction paper.

    Following these steps should help calm the snake and give it a better living environment. Once the snake feels safe, and all of its needs are being well met, I'm sure you will start to see a change in the behavior.
    0.1 BP - Mojave - Lexi
    1.0 Bearded Dragon - Thunder (RIP)
    0.1 Bearded Dragon - Lightning



    "Now you know, and knowing is half the battle." - G.I. Joe

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to LittleTreeGuy For This Useful Post:

    Albert Clark (01-27-2016)

  14. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    01-21-2016
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Maybe I severely overestimated her weight! Here is a photo of her. I am a small (5'2") female with very little hands, and here she is in my hand. Once I get her out of her tank, she is a sweetheart, but when she's in it, she's always strike-ready.


  15. #10
    bcr229's Avatar
    Join Date
    03-18-2013
    Location
    Eastern WV Panhandle
    Posts
    9,499
    Thanks
    2,890
    Thanked 9,854 Times in 4,776 Posts
    Images: 34
    She is thin along her spine. Are you feeding mouse fuzzies or rat fuzzies? Mouse fuzzies are way too small, hatchlings start on hoppers.

    That baby should be on small adult mice or rat pups.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1