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  1. #1
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    Final Cage Inspection

    Hello once again... I've got the final pieces to my cage set and just want to get some opinions and ask a few questions, hopefully with a few more responses this time

    I've attached a couple of photos of my tank... setup for an incoming ball python. I have two hides, one on the hot side, one on the cool side. The hot side is equipped with an UTH set to 91 degrees. I have a thermometer in the tank, with the probe stationed on top of the UTH (but on the inside of the tank, under the hide)... that thermometer currently reads about 87.1 degrees (I can't get it any hotter than that).

    As you can see, the skull is directly below the heat lamp, should provide a nice basking place for the little fella. The water dish and piece of wood are there for bathing, drinking, soaking and moisture purposes. I have foil over the cool side, in hopes to keep more moisture and humidty in the tank. The current humidity reading is 60%.

    So, how'd I do? Are there any glaring errors or potential goofs that I missed? Why can't I get the thermometer any higher than 87.1? I'll assume it's a bit warmer directly under the heat lamp (for basking) as the probe is under the hide and substrate).

    I followed the sticky concerning setting up a 20 long cage (i currently have most of the same supplies used in that guide).

    Any comments or insight you can share?

    Thanks!



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  3. #2
    BPnet Veteran treaux's Avatar
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    Nice looking setup! I'm not an expert, but I'm currently making something very similar to yours for a friend.

    What are you using currently for an UTH and thermostat? I don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to get it up to 90 degrees with any of the major brands.

    My recommendations would be as follows:

    1) Black out the back and sides of the tank. This will make your snake feel more secure. I have two baby BPs that were skittish and snappy until I did this to both of their tanks. They would recoil in fear just when I entered the room from 5 feet away. I just took kitchen towels and taped them around all sides (you could use black adhesive film to do a nice job) and their demeanor changed within a few days and they were friendly and eating normally.

    2) Swap out your white heat lamp for a red or ceramic and use a thermostat for it. I haven't seen either of my snakes ever "bask" in the traditional reptile sense. They will bask in the darkness of their hide when they want warmth. When the white light is on, it will simulate a very bright day, which makes them want to stay inside anyways. I just have a ceramic bulb that is controlled by a thermostat to keep adequate air temps while my UTH is controlled by another thermostat to keep the hotspot regulated. I use a Herpstat 2, but there are less expensive methods to do it. If you want a light just to see them, use an LED bulb or fluorescent that doesn't add too much heat.

    That's pretty much it. I added some branches as my little guy likes to climb around a bit too. To keep the humidity levels, I put a moist kitchen towel over most of the screen area on my cage as the ceramic will dry out the air if it's on.

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  5. #3
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    Re: Final Cage Inspection

    We had ceramic bulb but there was no light at all then. How would I provide light during the evening or over night? Maybe I'm not certain how long the light should stay on... I'm assuming the light stays on always? maybe that is wrong? Should I be turning the light off at night?

    I'll get on blacking out the sides, would a themed wallpaper setup work, maybe a jungle or desert theme, or would that scare the snake?

    The UTH is controlled by a thermostat. The thermometer reads the hot side. Even though the thermostat is set to 91 and fluctuates between 88 and 91, the thermometer won't go above 87.1. Strange. Maybe putting the ceramic bulb back in will help.

    Thanks for the input! Can't wait to actually get the little fella!

  6. #4
    BPnet Senior Member GoingPostal's Avatar
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    Ball pythons aren't really baskers unless they are desperately cold, your che or heat lamp will warm up the ambient temps but the uth is used for the hot spot. There isn't any need by the snake for visible light so a CHE is fine but if you want to see in you can have a light bulb on during the day. You will probably have to turn your thermostat up, generally you have to set them a few degrees higher to keep temps right. I would get a temp gun too if you don't have one already, good to double check your thermometers and test anywhere in the tank fast.

  7. #5
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    Re: Final Cage Inspection

    If you want to leave a light on all the time, and I do with a few of my setups, I'd us an IR light. Being nocturnal, BP's come out at night. Some say regular bulbs on all the time mess with the snake. I don't know...but the IR gives off the heat, and just enough illumination for me to watch if I so choose. CHEs are great too if you don't want to observe your snake. While I do like your setup, I think it's more for you than the BP at this point. If it were mine, I'd remove at least the wood and clutter it up with some fake plants. I use some form in all my setups and the snakes use them to hide in and cross from one side to the other when they are not in their hides. I went to the dollar store near me and grabbed a bunch of 6 foot silk ivy vines, gave them a quick rinse and sanitize and never looked back.

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    Re: Final Cage Inspection

    Turn your thermostat up a few degrees. .you do lose a few degrees as heat goes through the glass. Maby get hides a little closer in size. Aslo do you know what the cool side temp is?

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    Last edited by frostysBP; 10-15-2015 at 08:55 AM.

  10. #7
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    Final Cage Inspection

    Our snakes seem fine with patterned (aquarium) backgrounds, and it looks nicer to us humans, too. - nicer than the visual clutter of whatever is on the other side of the tank, I mean.

    I like to give my snakes a third hide, in the middle of the heat gradient, or position artificial plants or decor near a covered wall so they can hide behind it.


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    Last edited by Prognathodon; 10-15-2015 at 03:58 PM.
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  12. #8
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    Re: Final Cage Inspection

    I think pretty much everything has been covered but i would like to say great job on your set up! Looks great. Once you figure out how to ramp up the hot spot (turn the tstat up) you will be golden. I do second these suggestions;

    1. black out the back wall (you dont have to do all the sides...you can...but not a must)
    2. turn up the tstat until the prob inside reads 90
    3. both hides the same size: this one is not necessary but...it is kinda nice knowing your animal is under one hide or the other because thats what feels most comfortable and not because he/she simply likes the size of a certain hide (if that makes sense)

    you are doing great. if you are trying to get things 'perfect' for
    the little fella
    keep an eye on the humidity. 60 is great but you may find it drops and before the snake arrives you can practice different methods of raising the humidity so your a master of keeping the perfect 55 when you get the animal. keep us posted, i want to see pics of your new snake when you get it!!
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  14. #9
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    Re: Final Cage Inspection

    Great job! I have a jungle static cling background that makes Ginger's tank look great.


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