Heating help!

[gameonpython]

So first things first, I cannot get my ambient temperature over 70f. Glass tank, UTH, CHE, and the top has been tin foiled. The thermometer works, it's only off by two degrees. I just cannot get the temps up!

Secondly, my UTH has been getting to some pretty high temps lately. It's on a rheostat, but even on the lowest setting it still gets up to 120f! I did not have this problem a few months ago, could it be that my rheostat isn't working?

Please help me out in the comments, this is extremely frustrating!


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[Eric Alan]

It absolutely could be that your rheostat isn't working. At 120 degrees, as you know, you're putting your BP in pretty severe danger - even short term. I'd say it's time to invest in quality thermostat to put your mind at ease a bit more (not to mention for the safety of your BP in there).

[lunasjy]

The problem with glass tanks is it suck both heat and moisture right out of the enclosure. The tin foil tends help keep moisture in not heat unfortunately. I have never had any luck with tanks. Plastic storage totes is honestly (IMO) the best way to house snakes that need higher temps and humidity. The problem with heat pads is they do not raise ambient temperatures well. They do well for belly heat though so I always recommend them. You may need to get a heat lamp to up the ambient temperatures. The problem with this is lamps tend to suck humidity right out of the cages so you will have to spray more often. As for the thermostat, I agree that it is broken. I like to use herpstats but the cheapest available is around $100 and it really is not worth it if you only have one snake. I began using lamp dimmer switches from Home Depot. $10 for it, much better for a single snake then a $100 herpstat. They work very well. Mine are still being used for my corn snake and boa. I know a plastic tote is not pretty, but it is better for keeping in heat and humidity. Less need to spray and you will not have to get a heat lamp. But this is my opinion and my experience. Some of my friends have no issues using tanks with the added heat lamp and spraying, so it is up to how you want to care for your ball python.

[Eric Alan]

I like to use herpstats but the cheapest available is around $100 and it really is not worth it if you only have one snake. I began using lamp dimmer switches from Home Depot. $10 for it, much better for a single snake then a $100 herpstat. They work very well.

How much is a vet bill going to cost when that $10 dimmer switch doesn't work properly? How much does a single snake cost?

I realize that some people feel that spending $100 on a single piece of equipment may be a little much, and $100 means different things to different people, but honestly how do you put a price (that low) on the safety of your animals?

[tbowman]

They even have thermostats at petco these days for around 40 bucks. Much better to have something actively controlling your temperatures rather than just limiting power output. Rheostats will not account for fluctuations of room temperature.

[lunasjy]

How much is a vet bill going to cost when that $10 dimmer switch doesn't work properly? How much does a single snake cost?

I realize that some people feel that spending $100 on a single piece of equipment may be a little much, and $100 means different things to different people, but honestly how do you put a price (that low) on the safety of your animals?

Many people use them. I actually got the idea from a guy off this forum site. I have been using them for a really long time. They do an awesome job. And it is funny how the OP uses an actual reptile thermostat that wont lessen the temperature past 120F yet my 1 and a half year old dimmer switches has my corn snake`s temp at 85F and my boas at 90F. And until I got a herpstat, the dimmers kept my ball pythons cages at 92F. I only moved to a herpstat because I have three snake racks heat and only one outlet.

[tbowman]

Many people use them. I actually got the idea from a guy off this forum site. I have been using them for a really long time. They do an awesome job. And it is funny how the OP uses an actual reptile thermostat that wont lessen the temperature past 120F yet my 1 and a half year old dimmer switches has my corn snake`s temp at 85F and my boas at 90F. And until I got a herpstat, the dimmers kept my ball pythons cages at 92F. I only moved to a herpstat because I have three snake racks heat and only one outlet.

OP clearly stated they are using a Rheostat (dimmer switch).

[lunasjy]

Rheostat is meant for reptiles. I use an actual dimmer switch. They sell them at Home Depot but you can buy them from actual reptile places as well.

Here is one actually sold from a reptile caging store.

http://cornelsworld.com/product/slide-dimmer-switch/

And here it is again at Home Depot... it is the exact same thing just cheaper at the hardware store.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/cred...n-white/971428

It may not be a Rheostat (which is a dimmer in a sense) but they last and work.

[tbowman]

Definition of the term rheostat

"adjustable resistor used in applications that require the adjustment of current or the varying of resistance in an electric circuit."

Rheostats are in no way specific to reptiles.

[Eric Alan]

Rheostat is meant for reptiles.

False. Rheostat's are used to adjust the current in a circuit (dimming lights, controlling the speed of motors, etc) - they are certainly not unique to the reptile hobby. Typing "rheostat" into the search function on the Home Depot site yields several results - none of which are intended for use in the reptile hobby.

I use an actual dimmer switch. [...] It may not be a Rheostat (which is a dimmer in a sense) but they last and work.

The OP clearly stated that the method that he is using currently (a rheostat) is not working properly. It also happens to be a very similar method that you are advocating. While you may not have had problems previously, the OP is having problems with this method right now and is looking for alternative recommendations.