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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran vinnimac's Avatar
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    I am trying to get my all my stuff together to start breeding next season, and was wondering if it would inhibit hatchlings if I kept them in too large of a tub? I have been trying to find a rack that I could convert from one tub to another as they get older, but not finding anything I can afford. I really like the plans that were linked to in a different thread (which I now lost), but could I keep and raise hatchlings in that big of a tub?
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  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran Marla's Avatar
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    You could, but it's less stressful and more space-efficient to use a shoebox-style rack, like one of these:
    Build -
    http://www.dozierstudio.com/hatchrack.html
    http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rack.shtml
    Buy -
    http://www.chameleoncondo.net/pages/899918/
    http://www.cagecrafters.homestead.com/RackSystems.html
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  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran RobertCoombs's Avatar
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    I really wouldent go bigger than about a 28 quart blanket sized box for hatchlings this size would hold them until they are pretty much grown ...some breeders even keep adults in the same size tub
    It all really depends on what you plan to do with the hatchlings if your going to sell them off it really wouldent be worth building a large tub rack for only a few months
    If your going to keep them I would suggest a 12/28 rack ... holds both 12 quart and 28 quart tubs I dont have a pic with the blanket boxes but this one has 10, 12 quart tubs and will also hold 5, 28 quart tubs side ways, it would give you some time to pick keepers and also to find or build another rack and /or cages for when they are older It would ,I think be the best for you to start with ...if your going to stick with breeding it will never go to waste

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran kavmon's Avatar
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    i agree with robert, i keep my baby balls in 15qt. tubs in a 6 hole rack. when they are a year or so old i'll get another rack or cages for them.


    vaughn
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  5. #5
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    i had planned to use twenty gallon long tanks that were built with half glass and half screen tops, and front sliding doors. i was going to use plywood to encase the bottom, back and sides - but - i've chosen to use http://www.showcasecages.com/ products instead, even for breeding. they are really the best! hands down!!!http://www.showcasecages.com/

    and cagesbydesign.com also makes great enclosures if you want something more natural, i think they have python kits...just ask them...http://www.cagesbydesign.com
    Sincerely,

    Deven Nicholson
    www.Terra5Designs.com
    Extravigent Enclsoures for Extravigent Balls

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran Adam_Wysocki's Avatar
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    enclosures

    Hatcling ball pythons are much easier to get started on food in smaller containers. If you take them from just out of the egg to a 20L or a 28 qt sweater box, it makes it much more difficult to get them to take their first few meals.

    Once they are established, then they can easily be moved up to a large enclosure with enough hides.

    -adam
    Click Below to Fight The National Python & Boa Ban




    "The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing."
    - Anna Sewell, author of Black Beauty


  7. #7
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    I always advicate seperate feeding boxes. i sstrongly advise not to feed larger herps; monitors tegus and pythons in their enclosures. if the hides are the right size the ball will just have a nice place to live, when dinner time comes, the sepereate cardboard or plastic box works best. IMO
    Sincerely,

    Deven Nicholson
    www.Terra5Designs.com
    Extravigent Enclsoures for Extravigent Balls

  8. #8
    Registered User Shrap's Avatar
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    I like 15qt sterilites for hatchlings.

    My racks are built to hold either 15qt sterilites (10 of them), 32qt sterilites (5 of them) or a mixture of both in the same rack.

    And right now they are holding 40 empty 15qt sterilites. While I am just waiting and watching....waiting and watching....waiting and watching.
    In fact, everything we encounter in this world with our six senses is an inkblot test.
    You see what you are thinking and feeling, seldom what you are looking at. -Shiqin

  9. #9
    BPnet Veteran Adam_Wysocki's Avatar
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    I think the original poster was asking about hatchling ball pythons.

    Have you ever tried to get hatchling ball pythons to take their first meal? LOL .... large enclosures and seperate feeding boxes really isn't the right way to go if you want them to eat.

    Also, due to the shy and easily stressed nature of these animals, I advocate feeding ball pythons of all ages right in their enclosure. They will be more consistent feeders.

    -adam
    Click Below to Fight The National Python & Boa Ban




    "The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing."
    - Anna Sewell, author of Black Beauty


  10. #10
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    bp aggression?

    i thought it was about raising. remeber adam, i'm not a breeder, i build natuarlistic vivariums. just like the satanic leaf tailed geckos or the ensatina salamanders, most thought it was wrong to breed and inc in a vivarium, that the eggs wouldn't hatch and the time would be wasted but...i did something right.

    anyway, i think for the sake of breeding it's up to you breeders. i'm just leaning here too...so at what age do you think a ball could be safely moved in the a vivarium and then just taken out for feedings?

    I feed a hatchling ball it's first meal. i just thought my hand was going to fall asleep then it raised it's head, and with a partly open mouth hit the fuzzy mouse, it was fun.

    Sincerely,

    Deven Nicholson
    www.Terra5Designs.com
    Extravigent Enclsoures for Extravigent Balls

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