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  1. #181
    BPnet Veteran cletus's Avatar
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    The problem with those product reps is that they can tell you what their products are supposed to do but have very little practical experience with using them. Same thing with vets. You see comments all the time about someones vet says this or that about husbandry practices when they have limited practical experience outside the lab. Not ragging on vets here. lol The methods in those stickied care threads are tried and true methods based on years of real world experience.

  2. #182
    Registered User Slither Seeker's Avatar
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    yeah, I don't doubt that the person I talked with had limited real world experience. it would not surprise me if their priority is product liability and not so much with reptile health, mainly not wanting to ever get sued for someone's house burning down.

    that said, I have followed their caution with my Brazilian Rainbow Boa, using the smallest UTH. I set this up two years ago and didn't use a thermostat. I have the UTH attached to a piece of glass as described before. in the two years that the BRB has lived in this enclosure, it has been in perfect health, and never burrowed up against the heater, at least not that I can tell, never once showing signs of getting burned. maybe I've just been lucky but it does seem that when given adequate warmth with an appropriate thermocline that at least a BRB has the good sense to regulate it's temperature adequately.

    I am curious if anyone here has had a Ball Python burn itself on the smallest version of Zoo Meds UTH. If you are uncomfortable speaking out openly, feel free to send me a message. thanks!
    Last edited by Slither Seeker; 01-24-2017 at 03:14 PM.

  3. #183
    BPnet Senior Member GoingPostal's Avatar
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Go plug in one uncontrolled and check it after a few hours with a heat gun. I'll bet it's plenty warm enough to cause burns on a snake. All heat sources need to be controlled and frequently monitored, it's literally the most important issue to your snakes health, correct stable temps and humidity. I wouldn't use a zoo med product if it were free and I sure wouldn't take advice from them.

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  5. #184
    Registered User cayley's Avatar
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    Hi, the other thermostat links are broken (besides the cheap one). I've heard that a herpstat is the best option to avoid heat jumps etc. Does anyone have other recs? On amazon there are a lot by a brand called
    'ink bird', any reviews?
    Last edited by cayley; 03-20-2017 at 12:43 AM.

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  7. #185
    BPnet Veteran Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    thats just damn genius!

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  9. #186
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunnieskys View Post
    thats just damn genius!
    Sorry .... what is genius ??


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




  10. #187
    BPnet Veteran Ronniex2's Avatar
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Quote Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant View Post
    Since the stickied thread on how to setup a glass tank no longer has any pictures that still work I figured I would post a new one.

    This thread will cover how I setup a glass tank. It isn't the only way to do so, but it is what I have found to work the best for me.


    Materials and Tools Required:



    I will provide links to recommended products, and pictures whenever possible.



    1. Glass Tank (I will be using a 20 long, but the process will be similar for any glass tank. Larger tanks will be harder to heat & maintain humidity in)

    2. A Screen Top for the tank.

    3. A UTH (Under Tank Heater) Your UTH should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the tank.

    http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads


    4. A Thermostat to control the UTH

    Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S
    Mid-Range: http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermos...stat-prewired/
    Best: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html




    5. Aluminum Foil Tape (this is for use on the OUTSIDE of the cage only NEVER use tape inside a reptile cage)


    6. A Heat Lamp (Make sure you get one with a ceramic socket as shown below. Also make sure you get a lamp that is rated for a higher wattage than your Heat Bulb uses)




    7. Zoo-Med Infrared Heat Bulb (75-100 watts)

    http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo


    8. A Lamp Dimmer

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Cr...0#.UiKoMRZ2aOI


    9. 2 Hides:

    http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes


    10. A heavy water dish

    http://www.reptilebasics.com/water-bowls


    11. A probed thermometer

    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-I...ndingMethod=rr


    12. Some sort of substrate. (I will be using Aspen. Other good choices include: Paper towels/newspaper/corrugated wrap/Eco-Earth/reptibark/Cypress mulch. Stay away from non kiln dried pine/cedar/reptile carpet)


    13. Something to cover 3 sides of the tank with (I use white printer paper, but there are many options)


    14. Scotch Tape (this is for use on the OUTSIDE of the cage only NEVER use tape inside a reptile cage)


    15. Scissors


    16. Aluminum Foil


    Step by Step Instructions:

    Step 1: Turn the glass tank over so the bottom the the tank is facing upward. Place the probe from your thermostat towards either the left or right side of the tank. Using a small piece of foil tape attach the probe to the underside of the tank. (Don't put the tape on the probe itself. Stick it on the probes cord)


    Step 2: Take your UTH and place it on the underside of the tank. center it on the thermostat probe:




    Step 3: Using foil tape secure the UTH to the bottom of the tank. Make sure to keep the UTH pressed down against the glass. The tighter down it is the better the UTH will heat the cage.




    Step 4: flip the tank over so it is now standing on one of it's sides. Cover the exposed side with paper. When covered use scotch tape to attach the paper:




    Step 5: Turn the cage over 180 degrees so the other side is facing up. Repeat step 4.

    Step 6: Turn the cage 90 degrees so the back of the cage is facing up. (The side where your UTH and thermostat probe cords are sticking out)


    Step 7: Cover the back of the tank with paper and use scotch tape to attach it like before:







    Flip your tank right side up. Your tank should look something like this now:




    Step 8: Place your thermometer probe inside the tank centered on the UTH:


    Step 9: While holding the thermometer probe in place put your substrate into the cage. Make sure to keep the layer thin. No thicker than 1/2" thick:


    Step 10: Place the thermometer unit itself into the tank on the opposite side from the UTH:


    Step 11: Place your 2 hides into the tank. One centered over the UTH, and one on the other side of the cage:


    Step 12: Place your water dish into the center of the cage:


    Step 13: Screw the heat bulb into the heat lamp fixture and plug the heat lamp fixture into the lamp dimmer. The lamp dimmer will eventually be plugged into the wall:


    Step 14: Place the screen top onto the tank and then place the heat lamp onto the screen. Center the heat lamp over the tank:


    Step 15: Rip off 2 sheets of aluminum foil. Place a sheet on each end of the screen top. Wrap the edges around the lip of the screen top. You can use tape to secure the foil if you want. Just keep the tape on the outside of the tank:


    Step 16: Plug the UTH into the thermostat, then the thermostat into the wall. Plug the lamp dimmer into the wall as well.


    Your cage should now look something like this:




    Adjusting your thermostat and lamp Dimmer:

    At this point the cage itself is done, but that doesn't mean you are ready to put a snake into it yet. First you need to get your temperatures and humidity to the proper ranges (88-92 hot side, 78-82 cool side, 40%-60% humidity)

    The process of adjusting your heating system involves using your probed thermometer to read the current cage temperatures and either increasing the amount of heat added to the cage or reducing it.

    You want your thermostat set to whatever temperature makes the probe on your thermometer read between 88-92 F.

    You want to adjust the lamp dimmer until the cool side thermometer reads between 78-82 F.

    To adjust humidity in the cage you can mist with a spray bottle and warm water. If your cage has too much humidity you can remove some of the foil on the screen top.

    You want your thermostat to be placed/mounted where it is easily accessible and visible:


    Once you have your cage temperatures and humidity in the proper ranges you can introduce your snake to it's new home.






    How it all works:

    The UTH is used to generate the hot side basking temperature. Since UTH's don't change the temperature of the air in the tank the heat lam pis required to maintain the cool side/air temperatures in the cage. The substrate needs to be thin for the same reason. UTH's only heat surfaces they come into direct contact with. If the substrate layer is too thick the UTH will be completely useless. The foil on the screen top is used to reduce airflow in the cage to help maintain high humidity levels. You don't want to cover all of the screen top though as your snake still needs fresh air.



    Threads on other types of cages:

    Tubs: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...e-Basics-*DUW*

    Professionally made PVC reptile cages: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!

    Ball Python Care sheet: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

    More info on cage heating methods: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers


    If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or improvements feel free to post them below, or send my a private message. I'll be happy to help in any way that I can.
    1) where in the tank should be located
    - i see in your examples it is under the substrate will this provide the most accurate temp and humitdity?

    2) i have 2 biometric thermometers/humidity in my tank as well, are they any less accurate than the digital ones?
    - same for humidity

  11. #188
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Hi there, first off thanks so much for making these instructions! They helped me out a lot.

    One thing I have noticed is that due to the lamp placement, the middle of the tank tends to get warmer (surface temperature). I then also have a random hotspot next to the lamp where the heating pad starts. It then gets cooler as I go away from the lamp (even on the hot side). Is this okay?

  12. #189
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Quote Originally Posted by SimonPalmieri View Post
    Hi there, first off thanks so much for making these instructions! They helped me out a lot.

    One thing I have noticed is that due to the lamp placement, the middle of the tank tends to get warmer (surface temperature). I then also have a random hotspot next to the lamp where the heating pad starts. It then gets cooler as I go away from the lamp (even on the hot side). Is this okay?
    That's something that crossed my mind ...

    Wouldn't it be better to have the lamp placed above the heat mat ?

    That way you'd be able to set things up so you have the correct warm temps at that end and the heat from the lamp would disperse along to the other end providing a decent heat gradient ??

    Any experts out there ??


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




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  14. #190
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    Re: How to Setup a Glass Tank (20 long) With Pictures!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zincubus View Post
    That's something that crossed my mind ...

    Wouldn't it be better to have the lamp placed above the heat mat ?

    That way you'd be able to set things up so you have the correct warm temps at that end and the heat from the lamp would disperse along to the other end providing a decent heat gradient ??

    Any experts out there ??


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    This was exactly what I was thinking too but then the problem you run into is that your cold side gets too cold (at least for me). So I've left mine in the center and just made sure that the "hot spot" doesn't get too hot.

    It seems to work pretty well otherwise.
    Last edited by SimonPalmieri; 06-03-2017 at 09:11 AM.

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    Zincubus (06-03-2017)

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