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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran JamminJonah's Avatar
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    Just wanted to say hello and thank you for the excellent and informative posts. I have yet to read all of them - so this may have been covered or I may just be slow but I was wondering about habitats. I have a 30 gallon aquarium tank and though I know the materials needed (a hide or two, water/soak dish, heat form - ceramic heat or Under Tank Heater, basking branch, very well sealed top) I was curious as to the exact set up? What kind of equipment should I get to monitor heat - obviously a thermometer to stick on the back and a humidity measure thing to stick on the back, but what kind of electronic devices can I get that will help maintain the right heat without frying or freezing my little guy? UTH or Ceramic or both? I'm trying to set up my tank now so that I can recieve him on the 17th of march. Also, there is this cool substrate that glows in the dark it's made of crushed calcium any thoughts? And lastly - okay, I want to feed outside of the cage so that my hand does not get conditioned to evoke a biting response - so, when I take him out to feed him what should I put him in? Also do I have to let him sit in it for two days before returning him to his cage to prevent regurgitation?

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran JamminJonah's Avatar
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    Soon to be first time snake (Royal Python) owner

    Oh yeah also how often does a snake typically shed? The little guy I am getting is about a foot and a half in length maybe a year to a year and a half old. I'm hoping to get him from Don Hamper reptiles as is seen on the links page of this site under ball pythons.
    1.0 Ball Python [Icculus]
    >>>>Looking for a vet?<<<<
    http://www.herpvetconnection.com/
    http://www.arav.org

  3. #3
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    The setup can be anything you want realy. No rules on that.

    Use a cheap ol' thermometer from home depot.

    UTH's come with controls if you buy human ones. Thats really all you need.

    Put him in rubbermaids, boxes, spare tankes, ect


    I'd use both UTH's and ceramics.

    they shed roughly every two weeks.

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran Marla's Avatar
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    OK&lt; one question at a time. :lol:

    First, I suggest getting a digital indoor-outdoor thermometer/hygrometer combination. They're available at WalMart for ~$15 and similar stores for similar prices and will allow you to monitor the temps on both warm and cool sides and your humidity all at the same time. The stick-on type are known for being unreliable, and what you need to measure is ground-level readings anyway, rather than half way up the tank.

    Second, there are thermostats available for ~$40 that will monitor and control your heat devices. You can get them at Petco or many other pet stores offline. BigAppleHerp.com is one popular source for supplies online.

    Most folks recommend UTH or human heat pad with ball pythons because they need belly heat and do not bask, but others have used ceramic emitters with good results, so that's really an individual choice. My personal experience has taught me that heat pads for humans are the best choice for me, with adjustable heat and more even heating than reptile UTH's I've tried.

    I doubt the crushed calcium is a good substrate for your bp, because if it's like sand it can cause a deadly impaction in your snake. Newspaper, aspen shavings, cypress mulch, coconut, paper towels, even potting soil are substrates people use successfully with bp's.

    To feed out of the enclosure, you can use pretty much anything that he'll feel safe in -- a Rubbermaid tub is a good choice, but cardboard boxes (clean) are okay too. You carefully lift him out, supporting his bulge, and put him back in his enclosure for the next couple of days before handling again. You don't have to feed out of the enclosure, but it's definitely a good idea if you use a loose substrate.

    How often your bp sheds will depend on its growth rate and its health as snakes with skin conditions can sometimes stay in near-continuous shed trying to get their skin healthy again and a ball python that's fasting may not shed for months. If he's a regular 5-10 day feeder though you can expect sheds every few weeks, give or take.
    3.1.1 BP (Snyder, Hanover, Bo Peep, Sir NAITF, Eve), 1.2.3 Rhacodactylus ciliatus (Sandiego, Carmen, Scooby, Camo, BABIES ), 1.0 Chow (Buddha), 0.2 cats (Jezebel, PCBH "Nanners"), 0.3 humans
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  5. #5
    BPnet Veteran JamminJonah's Avatar
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    You guys are great! seriously, I've read a lot of your other posts. Thank you so much! Once I figure out how to use Avatars or whatever and post pictures I'll let you know what he looks like. I shall name him Icculus- Ick for short. Thanks again!! (from a nervous and excited first time bp owner)
    1.0 Ball Python [Icculus]
    >>>>Looking for a vet?<<<<
    http://www.herpvetconnection.com/
    http://www.arav.org

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran Marla's Avatar
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    You're welcome! We like happy, healthy ball pythons. By the way, beaglegod is another member who recently got a ball python and he asked lots of good questions leading up to and after getting his snake. You might find it useful to search for posts by him and read those threads. You can set up a gallery for yourself and upload some pictures by clicking the link to 'Photo Gallery' at the top of the page.
    3.1.1 BP (Snyder, Hanover, Bo Peep, Sir NAITF, Eve), 1.2.3 Rhacodactylus ciliatus (Sandiego, Carmen, Scooby, Camo, BABIES ), 1.0 Chow (Buddha), 0.2 cats (Jezebel, PCBH "Nanners"), 0.3 humans
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  7. #7
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    Another handy deal with the digital thermometers (at least the ones with an in/out temp probe) is that you can use the probe to get accurate readings within the warm hide. Depending on what your hide is made of and the type and positioning of light, radiant heat energy can raise the temp in there more than you might expect. If it is too hight you should not have much of a problem drilling a couple holes through the top to allow a little venting.

    "I don't FEEL tardy . . ."


  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran JamminJonah's Avatar
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    okay here is a stupid question - If I put the probes in the tank one on hot side one on cold - is there any chance that Ick could ingest them or get himself into trouble with them? Should I have them hang barely above the floor or a bit in the stubstrate itself? Also can i leave them in all the time or should I put them in when measuring then take them out? Sorry these are such strange questions I feel like a new parent with a baby and mine hasn't even arrived yet! haha.
    1.0 Ball Python [Icculus]
    >>>>Looking for a vet?<<<<
    http://www.herpvetconnection.com/
    http://www.arav.org

  9. #9
    BPnet Veteran JamminJonah's Avatar
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    Okay - last one (for tonight) - what kind of pincher deals do i use to feed the f/t mice? Where can i get them? Are they tongs or do they lock? Any reccomendations?
    1.0 Ball Python [Icculus]
    >>>>Looking for a vet?<<<<
    http://www.herpvetconnection.com/
    http://www.arav.org

  10. #10
    BPnet Veteran Marla's Avatar
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    I leave my probe and unit on top of the substrate all the time -- check my gallery to see an example. However, they come with a little prop stand that should be thrown away because bp's can get stuck in them. As for feeding the mice, I use hemostats but you can use large tweezers or barbecue tongs or whatever you want as long as you can hold the mouse securely and release quickly.
    3.1.1 BP (Snyder, Hanover, Bo Peep, Sir NAITF, Eve), 1.2.3 Rhacodactylus ciliatus (Sandiego, Carmen, Scooby, Camo, BABIES ), 1.0 Chow (Buddha), 0.2 cats (Jezebel, PCBH "Nanners"), 0.3 humans
    xnview for resizing and coverting pics

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