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  1. #1
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    I am new to the having a Ball Python. My first one. I have a 3 year old Bearded Dragon. Anyway, I got him 2 weeks ago tomorrow(Sat.) I had him for one week when I noticed a small tick on him. Went to the vet to make sure and it was. They took it off. He is about 2 1/2 feet long. Young still, somewhat. I tried feeding him that night for the first time, which was probably a mistake. He didn't eat. I figurered the vet trip stressed him out. I tried feeding him a small live mouse. So, I waited 2 days, then put him in a 10 gallon tank with the mouse. The mouse walked right up to him, sniffed his nose, and my Ball just turned his head. That was 3 days ago. So, I'm wondering when and how I should go about this. Like I said, I am very new to this so I could use any help I am given. I was thinking about killing the mouse and putting him in his tank. Is he just not adjusted yet? I have him in a 55 gallon aquarium. One 75 watt light over his log and hiding spot, and a florescent bulb as well. Water on the other side. Anyway, any help would be great. Thanks!

    P.S.- what is the easiest way to go about killing the mouse. I've never had to do it before, besided in a trap... :lol:

  2. #2
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    Feeding Problem?

    Hi, and welcome!

    First off, congrats on your new addition! I would say wait about 7-10 more days before offering him any food, and leave him completely alone during this time. I know it sounds like a long time, but he needs to get adjusted to his new home, or you may find yourself having one heck of a time trying to feed him. A 55 gallon tank is pretty big for such a little guy, I would suggest putting two or more hides in there for him. (One on the warm side and one on the cool side, at least.)

    There are a few ways to kill a mouse, but first, you should really see if he eats f/t rats, then you wouldn't have to do any "killing". If he refuses that, then to kill a mouse or rat, what I have done is put it in a brown paper bag and wack it into the wall. I've noticed that they die instantly from this.

    Good luck.
    Jennifer

  3. #3
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    Thanks alot. I will wait then and see. I have another question. I am almost positive I know the answer though. It is normal for them to sleep all day in their hide spot and come out at night, correct. Does how warm the enviroment is effect their eating habits??

  4. #4
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    Your right, that's normal, they're nocturnal animals. And in a sense, yes, the temps do affect their feeding habits. If the temps are not correct, they may stress. Stressing usually (in ball pythons) causes them to go off feed. Humidity can affect their eating habits (because again, if the humidity % is not correct, they can stress). Also, if you have older ball pythons, (in their 2nd or 3rd winter on) they may go off feed for the entire winter due to stimulation of breeding behavior.

    Jennifer

  5. #5
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    What is correct temp for them to be at when hiding during the day? I need to get some intank thermometers. I have them in my Beardeds enviroment. What % of humidity is normal? I was reading somewhere on here how some people duct tape 1/3 of the top of there lid above the water bowl to keep some humidity in. Is this a good thing to do? Thanks a bunch!

  6. #6
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    BloodxBall

    the correct temps would be 85-88F on the hot side and about 75F on the cool side. most caresheets also say a basking spot of 95F.
    with humidity you want to shoot for 60%. no lower the 50%. as for the duct tape...here in AZ in the middle of winter i have to cover most of the screen with duct tape to get any humidity. just fiddle around with different amounts of duct tape till you get the humidity where you want it. you might still have to mist. if your using a heat light, put it over the water bowl. if you have an under tank heater, put the water bowl over it.
    you should also read a couple caresheets online and refer to them when you need a reminder on esomething like temps and humidity or other such things.

  7. #7
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    You should keep the cool side around 75 - 80 and the warm side 85 - 90. I have the kind of thermomets that stick to the side of the tank and have them about an inch or so from the substrate, and they work really well. Humidity wise, I try to keep it anywhere from 50 - 60%. You can tape or put a towel or the top of the cage (depending on the kind of top you have) when you have your heat light on and the humidity drops below 50%. This retains the water vapor that is evaporating from the cage. I would highly suggest putting 2 water dishes in the cage, one on the cool side and one on the hot side.
    Da Wolf

    "The strength of the pack is in the wolf. The strength of the wolf is in the pack." Rudyard Kipling 1894

    1.0 Ball Python (Zeus)
    1.0 Jungle Python (Apollo)

  8. #8
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    Thanks everybody. I do have fairly large size water dish on the cooler side of the tank. I will try covering part of it. I do read alot of care sheets online, but alot of them tell you different things. Thanks again!

  9. #9
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    Xaero was a little wierd about eating the first couple days. I read that if they are giving trouble eating in a box or bag, then try dangling the f/t in front of the hide in thier cage. That worked for me, but I didn't want him eating in his cage since they can get in the habit of striking at anything that comes in the door after awhile.......
    So, I got a large cardboard box and put some turf down just like in his cage to add familiarity and comfort. Of course if you use bark or something like that you'll want to skip that step as he could ingest some and then you're gonna be worried.
    Anyway, I put the little rat in first for about ten minutes or so to get his scent everywhere. Then I put the bp in and he searched the rat out and gobbled it post-haste!
    Hope this helps, works for me at least. Had my bp for three weeks now and he's eaten every five days or so with no sweat. (knock on wood!)

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