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Thread: Hatchling Care

  1. #21
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    Thanks for the write up, needed to read this as we are planning to breed for the first time this year. A couple of questions: " Wait until they shed. This will take from 5-14 days, depending on the baby. Some shed faster than others, but if they DO NOT shed, this can indicate a problem with the baby itself. I tend to wait a few weeks, and if it hasn't shed, that's when the baby goes on "danger watch"." What do you mean by this? Do you have any good links to what to do for some of the different complications that can arise as I'd like to read up on them so I'm prepared

  2. #22
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    Thank you it is a very good information...
    like it..

  3. #23
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    thank you... the best ive ever read...

  4. #24
    Registered User kikkimea's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchling Care

    This is awesome and very relieving, thanks!
    Kikkimea Reptiles


  5. #25
    BPnet Veteran greco's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchling Care

    I think "danger watch" means that they start keeping a closer eye on the hatchling. If it doesn't shed, then it's not developing properly...something is probably wrong with it (maybe internal deformities?) and it may not survive.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

  6. #26
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    Re: Hatchling Care

    Quote Originally Posted by LadyOhh View Post
    What do you do when you have waited two long months for baby snakes, and all of a sudden they are actually there???

    Heads are poking out of shells, but you are not sure what to do after they come out!

    Well, here's what I do.

    1) Wait until they hatch out. This seems like an obvious thing, but honestly, don't freak out until they are actually out of the egg.

    2) Rinse the babies off individually, as when they hatch out, they tend to be covered in goo. You don't need soap, just water.

    3) Set up the tubs. I like to put each clutch in together until they all shed, for record taking purposes as well as a space saving technique. The tubs should be lined with paper towels lightly misted with water to make the humidity nice and comfortable for the new little ones. I put my babies in hatchling tubs, which equate to shoebox size.

    4) Wait until they shed. This will take from 5-14 days, depending on the baby. Some shed faster than others, but if they DO NOT shed, this can indicate a problem with the baby itself. I tend to wait a few weeks, and if it hasn't shed, that's when the baby goes on "danger watch".

    5) Feeding: After they shed, split them all up, sex them if you haven't already (some people sex babies out of the egg...I know I do), and put them in individual tubs. Give them a day or two to acclimate to being alone, and then attempt to give them food. Some people start with rat crawlers, some people start with mouse hoppers. I try the rats first, and if they do not take in a few feedings, I switch to mouse hoppers. Mouse hoppers are candy to babies, and they usually do the trick, but I prefer my babies on rats primarily, so I tend to avoid the use of them unless necessary. If that doesn't work even with the mouse hoppers, try giving the babies less space... Put some crumpled paper towels in the tub with the babies to give them the sensation of being able to hide. Leave them be for 3-5 days, and try again with a mouse hopper.

    Force-feeding is something I do not enjoy doing, nor do I think should be a resource unless absolutely necessary. Final resort, so to speak. If the baby is not eating after a couple of months out of the egg, I would suggest considering force-feeding. This is a very stressful process for the snake, so take that with a grain of salt. Take the back of the head of the baby, open up the jaws slightly, and gently force the DEAD small food item (mouse pink, usually) into the jaws to the point where the baby cannot push it out. Put it back in the tub and wait to see if the baby attempts to swallow it or not. Be very careful, because as I said, this is traumatic for the snake, and can be unsuccessful.

    6) Problems... With hatchlings, there are plenty of problems that can arise. Hard bellies, deformation, attached umbilicus. If you do see these problems, do a search on them to see what other people have done. These are all very specific and exhaustive topics, so I'm not going to go into them individually, but realize that yes, they can happen, and yes, you should be prepared.

    7) ENJOY THEM! Hold them if you want, love them if you want, but know that this is the snake's infant period, and they can be touchy (aka stressed out). I would suggest not playing with them often, as this can set back the feeding and growth of your snake for a bit if they get too stressed.

    Congratulations, you have successfully produced Ball Python babies.
    k


    Great read. As I now come to realize, I was sold a hatchling banana ball python at a reptile show in White Plains on September 11th of this year. I was told it was due to shed but to date it hasn't wanted to eat or shed. I've done all I could do for the animal. Kept it moist, humidity, shoebox. All to no avail. I've had to,force feed it on 3 occasions and its gained and lost weight in the month that I've had it. All my other Bp's have grown well except for this one banana. He is still hasn't had its first shed as his shiny coat is still on him. Any advise you can give me? I've reached out to the seller from the show and he's offered to exchange it. I'd hate to 'give up' on him but don't know what else I could do. Currently at 76 grams but got him at 73 grams at purchase. He's in a hatchling rack with a herpstat thermostat running. Any help/advise would be appreciated.

  7. #27
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchling Care

    Quote Originally Posted by EddieMac View Post
    k


    Great read. As I now come to realize, I was sold a hatchling banana ball python at a reptile show in White Plains on September 11th of this year. I was told it was due to shed but to date it hasn't wanted to eat or shed. I've done all I could do for the animal. Kept it moist, humidity, shoebox. All to no avail. I've had to,force feed it on 3 occasions and its gained and lost weight in the month that I've had it. All my other Bp's have grown well except for this one banana. He is still hasn't had its first shed as his shiny coat is still on him. Any advise you can give me? I've reached out to the seller from the show and he's offered to exchange it. I'd hate to 'give up' on him but don't know what else I could do. Currently at 76 grams but got him at 73 grams at purchase. He's in a hatchling rack with a herpstat thermostat running. Any help/advise would be appreciated.
    This is an old thread and the person you are asking your question to has not participated in well over a year, creating a new thread would bring you a lot more answers.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Deborah Stewart

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  9. #28
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    Re: Hatchling Care

    Great post, I'd like to add point 1a - under no circumstance "help" the hatchling out of its egg. It's not stuck or trapped if it sits in its egg for a day or so, it's merely absorbing the last of its egg yolk. Helping it out may well kill it.

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