Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 2,978

1 members and 2,977 guests
Most users ever online was 6,337, 01-24-2020 at 04:30 AM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,031
Threads: 248,490
Posts: 2,568,448
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, isismomma
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran BallPython17's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-10-2008
    Location
    miami, florida
    Posts
    394
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
    Images: 17

    Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    What can I feed my tortoise? I use to have a red foot who I would feed romaine lettuce, tomatoes, and carrots. Can I feed this to my sulcatta?
    1.0 cinny, 1.0 pastel, 1.2 spider, 0.3 normals, 1.0 mojo, 1.0 albino, 1.0 fire, 1.1 yellowbelly, 1.0 het. pied, 1.0 lesser



  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    12-07-2008
    Posts
    170
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
    Images: 7

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Sulcatas should have a wide variety of grasses and weeds. They are very different from redfoots. Mine live off of various grass, hay, dandilions, clovers, and other weeds they find in my yard. I give them a few treats from my garden, but very limitted. Just a little squash or pumpkin here and there. I also give them a little lettuce, mustard greens, collard greens, and spring mix salad during the winter. The older they get, the more they should have hay, grass, and weeds and less of the salads...

    How old is your sulcata? How big? Any pics?

    Romaine is OK, but does not offer enough fiber and other nutrition. But better than iceburg... Carrots are OK for a rare treat and in limitted amounts. Same for tomatoes. They really just need to graze on high fiber grasses and weeds.

    Other things to consider... Substrate (espeically for hatchlings and yearlings), humidity, heat (hot and cool side), digging\burrowing, exercise, UVB\Sun. Keep in mind these guys get BIG and can be distructive to houses and landscapes. They are very strong and determined and known for escaping yards and getting into other trouble.
    __________________

    Chad
    www.iherp.com/wafisherman

    Ball Python, 2 Dumiril's Boas, Mexican Boa
    Russian Tortoise, 3 Sulcata Tortoises,
    3 E. Box Turtles and one 3-Toed Box Turtle
    Dog, Cat, Bearded Dragon
    2 Leo Geckos, Tiger Salamander, 2 Water Dragons
    Chickens, Rabbits, Ducks, Pilgram Geese
    2 Olberhasli milking goats
    7 kids and one amazing wife!

  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran Patrick Long's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-16-2005
    Location
    Ventura, California, United States
    Posts
    8,209
    Thanks
    564
    Thanked 987 Times in 736 Posts
    Images: 36

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    I do not feed any lettuce to my torts, only green leaf and grasses.

    Mazuri chow is very good, they seem to like that. Chad pretty much hit the nail on the head about them being destructive.

    I do give my big guy an apple every now and then.

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran BallPython17's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-10-2008
    Location
    miami, florida
    Posts
    394
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
    Images: 17

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    I'll get pics up in a bit. He's only 12 days old (I picked him up at the Daytona show). He's currently in a 10 gallon tank with cypress mulch as bedding, a half log for a hide (he doesn't go in it, he just burrows in the mulch), and a food bowl. I'm getting a UVB light this weekend, but he does have a heat lamp on him. Oh what would be a good brand of UVB light to use? Pics would help too.

    Thanks
    1.0 cinny, 1.0 pastel, 1.2 spider, 0.3 normals, 1.0 mojo, 1.0 albino, 1.0 fire, 1.1 yellowbelly, 1.0 het. pied, 1.0 lesser



  5. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    12-07-2008
    Posts
    170
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
    Images: 7

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    A 10 gal is way too small. I'd look into getting a plastic sweater or christmas tree box. They need exercise and don't usually do well in glass tanks.

    You can go with a mega-ray bulb (MVB type bulb that combines UVB and heat in one bulb). But they can be a bit much for a tiny tort.

    Read up here for some good care info (inlcuding some recommended UVB bulbs):

    http://www.sulcata-station.org/pdf/S...esheet2003.pdf
    __________________

    Chad
    www.iherp.com/wafisherman

    Ball Python, 2 Dumiril's Boas, Mexican Boa
    Russian Tortoise, 3 Sulcata Tortoises,
    3 E. Box Turtles and one 3-Toed Box Turtle
    Dog, Cat, Bearded Dragon
    2 Leo Geckos, Tiger Salamander, 2 Water Dragons
    Chickens, Rabbits, Ducks, Pilgram Geese
    2 Olberhasli milking goats
    7 kids and one amazing wife!

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    12-07-2008
    Posts
    170
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
    Images: 7

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Oh, and here is a pic of my young sulcata tort table. It is a book case layed down on its back. About 3ft wide by 6 feet long with 15 or so inch sides.




    This was right after I set it up. I made a few changes since then. You'll see some cuttlebone in there. Good for calcium and natural beak trimming.

    I use organic soil mixed with a little play sand. 2 shallow water dishes (only one is needed, but I had room for 2). A warm basking area for UVB and heat. A dark warm humid hide area complete with good moist soil to dig down into. And plenty of room to roam, climb, explore. I planted some tort seed mix as well.



    If you click my iherp link, you can see the plastic utility tub I converted into a tort table for my Russian Tort - this would also work great for your little guy.
    __________________

    Chad
    www.iherp.com/wafisherman

    Ball Python, 2 Dumiril's Boas, Mexican Boa
    Russian Tortoise, 3 Sulcata Tortoises,
    3 E. Box Turtles and one 3-Toed Box Turtle
    Dog, Cat, Bearded Dragon
    2 Leo Geckos, Tiger Salamander, 2 Water Dragons
    Chickens, Rabbits, Ducks, Pilgram Geese
    2 Olberhasli milking goats
    7 kids and one amazing wife!

  7. #7
    BPnet Veteran BallPython17's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-10-2008
    Location
    miami, florida
    Posts
    394
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
    Images: 17

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Aite. I mean he's only in the 10 gallon for a lil bit. But he doesn't walk a lot. He's just chilling in the little hole he made. Ima end up putting him in a tupperware soon. I'm just waiting to get the UVB light.
    1.0 cinny, 1.0 pastel, 1.2 spider, 0.3 normals, 1.0 mojo, 1.0 albino, 1.0 fire, 1.1 yellowbelly, 1.0 het. pied, 1.0 lesser



  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran BallPython17's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-10-2008
    Location
    miami, florida
    Posts
    394
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
    Images: 17

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Oh and the link for the UVB isn't working.
    1.0 cinny, 1.0 pastel, 1.2 spider, 0.3 normals, 1.0 mojo, 1.0 albino, 1.0 fire, 1.1 yellowbelly, 1.0 het. pied, 1.0 lesser



  9. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    12-07-2008
    Posts
    170
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
    Images: 7

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Quote Originally Posted by BallPython17 View Post
    Oh and the link for the UVB isn't working.
    It is .pdf format. Your computer may not be set up to view that format....

    Here is the text:

    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    AFRICAN SPURRED TORTOISE (GEOCHELONE SULCATA) CARE & INFO SHEET
    Written by Marissa Armour – Turtle Homes (www.turtlehomes.org)
    This care sheet is a good beginner’s reference and might help to explain, in layman’s terms, some of the more technical jargon of the
    tortoise world. Sulcatas are not tortoises to commit to lightly! If they grow and remain healthy, that commitment is a lifetime one. In
    order to see what you are up against, or to dispel all myth and maybe some bad advice or information you might have been given,
    please take a moment to visit the Turtle Homes website and take the Sulcata Challenge: http://www.turtlehomes.org/usa/test.shtml.

    Medical, and Veterinary Information: Upon first introducing your new tortoise into your home, you should immediately have
    the tortoise examined by a qualified reptile vet, preferably one who is familiar with treating terrestrial tortoises like the Sulcata. Don’t
    be afraid to interview the vet, make sure the vet has treated these types of tortoises before, and question any medications the vet wants
    to give. Many regular vets that don’t treat a lot of reptiles are quick to want to give Vitamin A injections and blame illnesses on
    Vitamin A deficiencies, as that was something seen very frequently many years ago. Many tortoises appear ill due to improper
    housing and incorrect temperature gradients and/or dehydration. Many tortoises (especially new ones) that are, in fact, ill, are often
    times infested with parasites and/or worms requiring deworming or antiparasitic therapy, or have respiratory illnesses that require
    antibiotic therapy. Many vets will use Panacur to treat worms, Flagyl to treat parasites, and Baytril to treat respiratory illnesses. Even
    with these medications, make sure your vet fully explains the reasoning behind any medication and don’t be afraid to do your own
    research. The majority of small animal vets have had experience only with common water turtles and box turtles, if at all. The vet
    should perform a thorough examination, as well as a complete fecal culture (direct smear as well as flotation) to check for all worms
    and parasites, including Giardia, Hexamita Parva, etc. If your tortoise is wild caught (which you should try to avoid), it will probably
    have internal parasites. Captive bred tortoises are less likely to have worms and/or parasites than wild caught specimens, however,
    these organisms are common. If your tortoise is diagnosed with any, treatment is usually routine, if caught in time. If you do not have
    a reputable reptile vet in your area, or are not sure where to go, begin by accessing the Association of Reptile and Amphibian
    Veterinarians (ARAV) website at: www.arav.org/memberdirintro.html. You will want to make certain your vet records an accurate
    weight and write that down for your own personal records. Then, every few months, you should return to have your tortoise weighed.
    It is good to keep a running tally of your tortoise’s weight from hatchling stage to adult. Your vet may not charge you to weigh the
    tortoise. If your vet does, in fact, charge for weigh-ins, you can purchase a gram scale of your own and perform this routine task at
    home.


    Heating and Housing: To begin with, never use a hot rock as a heat source. Hot rocks are the worst, especially for a tortoise! Your
    tortoise (particularly a hatchling) has very a sensitive shell and skin, and any contact with the hot rock can cause severe skin and/or
    shell burns, which could be, in a worse case scenario, fatal! The very best ground heat source for all reptiles is an under-tank heater or
    heat pad. However, tortoises do best with basking heat from above, as it replicates the natural heat from the sun. You want to be sure
    that your basking heat source is not of too high a wattage for the enclosure size and type. As a precautionary note, it is important to
    remember that most of these heaters raise the temperature 15 degrees F (8 degrees C) or so above ambient temperature. In the event
    that the temperature of your home rises over 80 degrees F (27 degrees C), this heat source should be shut down until the room
    temperatures drop back to normal. The enclosure size should be as large as you can make it to start out with, but minimally, about 2
    feet long and 1 foot wide for a hatchling, nothing smaller than that. It should be noted that this tortoise (and tortoises in general) are
    not suited for a "vivarium-type" enclosure such as a fish tank or glass aquarium, and should be housed in an open enclosure-type
    environment. It isn't difficult to build a tortoise table. A link to a good turtle table can be found at
    www.unc.edu/~dtkirkpa/stuff/table.html. You can vary from that model to a similar pen or enclosure to suit your space and,
    more specifically, the needs of the Sulcata. This turtle table is suitable for many kinds of tortoise. Another good link to instructions
    on how to build a juvenile Sulcata pen is at a wonderful and recommended site called Sulcata Station. THIS is the very best sulcataspecific
    website I have found on the Internet thus far. The direct link for the juvenile tortoise pens is: www.sulcatastation.
    org/housing.html. After you are finished looking at the building plans for the juvenile enclosure you should browse the
    entire Sulcata Station website for ideas. Many people house their hatchlings in the smaller enclosure that I described above for the
    first few months to a year of age, after that, a larger pen or enclosure is a must. If you are just starting out with a hatchling or yearling,
    you can even use a Rubbermaid tub for housing. Most Wal-Marts or Home Depots will have a nice selection, and even plastic is
    recommended over a glass fishtank or glass enclosure. Glass is the very poorest choice of enclosure for a sulcata, and should only be
    used as a “hospital tank” in the event of illness, or for emergencies.
    Lighting: If regular or daily outdoor time under direct sunlight is not provided (or cannot be provided due to weather), a fluorescent
    full spectrum UVB bulb is necessary for the proper development of your tortoise, from the hatchling stages through adult, and UVB
    lighting should always be provided, along with a basking bulb for heat. You cannot provide these UVB rays by placing your
    enclosure near a window for sunlight. Sunlight filtered through most regular window glass will filter out all beneficial rays, including
    UVB, leaving you with just another light source. UVB is necessary for the animal to produce Vitamin D3, which aids in calcium
    utilization for healthy shell growth. Remember, all so-called "full spectrum" lights do not provide UVB rays. Most incandescent or
    “reptile heat bulbs” will state that they are full spectrum and may even say they are “full spectrum UV bulbs”, but do not have UVB
    rays, they only have UVA rays. Many reptile fluorescent full-spectrum bulbs will look deceivingly like the one you might need. If
    the box of bulb does not specifically state “UVB” it is not the one you need. Please don’t get confused between a heat/basking bulb
    African Spurred Tortoise (Geochelone Sulcata) Care & Info Sheet –Page 2
    and a fluorescent bulb. The bulb that you need is long, skinny, fluorescent bulbs, not screw in light bulbs. One of the best fluorescent
    bulbs specifically for tortoises on the market is the ZooMed’s ReptiSun 5.0 bulb, but I have heard good things about the Desert 7%
    bulbs as well. You will want to make sure that the UVB bulb you choose has a minimum of 2.0% UVB output.
    Please be advised that
    most UVB output diminishes from about 6 months to a year. After one year of use, your bulb will still probably shed light but the
    UVB rays will be gone. Therefore, you should replace your UVB bulbs each year on schedule. You may still find a use for the old
    bulb around your home, possibly for growing plants or graze mix for your tortoises. There has been some research that indicates that
    if a calcium supplement that contains Vitamin D3 is used the UVB is not necessary, I use both as I consider the added light to be
    necessary for the proper behavior of the animal. Online, there are several retailers who carry these bulbs, along with other supplies.
    Temperature: It is extremely important to create a correct temperature gradient in your tortoise’s pen…and to thereafter monitor
    temperature. Temperature that are too high or too low can cause symptoms of illness, lethargy, and dehydration. Get one or two good
    thermometers and mount it/them to the enclosure. Do not use the stick-on reptile thermometers, they are not accurate. I like Radio
    Shack’s indoor/outdoor digital thermometer. Make sure you are able to accurately calculate the floor temps with all heating and
    lighting on so you can be sure the floor temperature, where your tortoise resides, is not too hot. If the thermometer is just mounted on
    the wall without first checking the floor temperature, it can deceivingly appear as if the temperatures are in a good range when really
    they may be too hot. I have two of the Radio Shack brand indoor/outdoor digital mountable thermometers. They run about $10 each,
    and are excellent and extremely accurate. They are backed with velcro and can be mounted to the side of the enclosure, but the actual
    thermometer section can be removed and moved around to monitor all pen temps, which is a great feature. For a small, hatchling-sized
    enclosure, one should suffice. However, move the thermometer around to make sure it is not too hot right under the heat lamp, in the
    middle, and in the cool zone. For a small enclosure, it is difficult to make a hot zone and a cool zone. In a larger enclosure, you
    should have the heat lamp in one area. Then, nothing in the cool zone. In my large enclosure, I only have one large basking bulb at
    one end suspended from a lamp stand. For floor pens, the ZooMed lamp stand is a lifesaver. You can get them online at
    www.beanfarm.com. The ceramic bulbs are very good and long-lasting but you must make sure if you use one that you use a dome
    lamp with either a porcelain or ceramic socket. A regular dome lamp with a plastic socket will melt and can be a fire hazard. The
    room my pen is in never goes below 73 degrees Fahrenheit. I find I am able to maintain the proper temperatures with just one heat
    bulb. If you find that you don't need much heat to maintain proper temperatures, do not go overboard….overheating is as bad as
    underheating. The only light source that is necessary is the UVB lighting, so you can use the non-light producing ceramic bulb for
    heating effectively. Important: many people recommend keeping G. sulcata at very high temperatures. NOT TRUE! A good
    temperature zone is 85 degrees in the hot zone and 72-75 in the cool zone. Exposure to consistently high temperatures, i.e, 90-100
    degrees F (32 - 37 degrees C) can cause your tortoise to become very dehydrated; it can then experience loss of appetite, develop
    bladder stones, or have other additional problems. I listened to all the conflicting information and made it too hot for the first few
    months I had my hatchling. I did not realize have the correct information and the importance of soakings, and consequently, my
    tortoise developed a bladder stone due to dehydration, which I treated with lowered temperatures and frequent soakings...and the stone
    was luckily and eventually passed. Don't make the same mistake!
    Soaking: Soak your juvenile at least 3 times per week without fail. For hatchlings, all newly acquired tortoises, and yearlings, I
    even recommend every day or every-other-day soakings. Your tortoise will be considered a juvenile and no longer a hatchling after
    about 1 year of age. A juvenile can be soaked about 3 times per week. An adult Sulcata should be still be soaked 1 time per week for
    the rest of its life. The water should be lukewarm and no deeper than the bottom shell (plastron). I use a plastic kitty-litter pan as a
    "bath tub", which is good, as the tortoise likes to see out over the rim, and it makes for an easy clean-up. My dirty “bath water” goes
    right into our toilet bowl. You should soak for 5-10 minutes each time and make sure the tortoise is clean and dry when he goes back
    in his enclosure, or for a walk around. Large tortoises should be provided a shallow outdoor pool for soaking and wading. Further
    reading on proper soaking techniques can be found at www.home.earthlink.net/~rednine/soak.htm.
    Substrate: Also, it is important for your tortoise to be able to burrow. In the wild, Sulcatas spend 85% of their time in scrapes and
    burrows. They maintain the proper humidity balance in their own created microclimates this way, and retain the necessary moisture to
    live. Make certain you have a good substrate in your enclosure. I currently use CareFresh which you can obtain at
    www.beanfarm.com if you are not able to obtain it at your local reptile or pet shop. You can also use timothy hay, aspen bedding
    or Lizard Litter…find the one that works best for you. However, you should avoid the following substrates: plain coarse or fine
    sand, crushed oyster shells, crushed walnut shells, corncob, and especially pine or cedar shavings. The oils in those woods are toxic to
    your tortoise. You should put about two to four layers of newspaper on the bottom of the enclosure under any substrate. This way,
    any urine or water can soak through the substrate, not sit in it. It also makes for a quick clean-up and is safe for the reptile. A really
    good substrate for a Sulcata is a 50/50 mixture of sterile soil (topsoil) and soft sterile playground sand. It is also important to provide
    a hide box or area for your tortoise, as they feel most comfortable when surrounded on at least 3 sides by their environment. You
    must place the hide box in the "cool zone" of the enclosure and not near the heat sources. A hide box need not be anything more than a
    cardboard box with an appropriate-sized opening for the tortoise. I personally use a few pieces of newspaper, tented, on one side of the
    enclosure with one opening facing the enclosure and one opening facing a wall. My tortoise retains that shape for a day or two before
    completely shredding the tent in favor of a pile of newspaper particles which he then burrows into. I prefer the neater tent shape, but
    it’s the tortoise’s house not mine. If the tortoise is happy, I’m happy! You might find your tortoise "hiding" a lot. This is normal so
    African Spurred Tortoise (Geochelone Sulcata) Care & Info Sheet –Page 3
    do not be alarmed. My tortoise spends a large part of his day in its hide area, frequently coming out to eat or walk, but always going
    back to the hide area. The Sulcata is an active tortoise during the day though and should be provided enough space in the enclosure
    for it to exercise and walk. My tortoise comes out for supervised romps in my kitchen every afternoon where it proceeds to do “laps”
    for at least an hour. Although, sometimes it just crawls head-first into a corner and “meditates”. In the wild, they spend a lot of time
    hiding, this is normal anti-predator behavior for young animals.
    Feeding: Food is an important factor in healthy growth. It is crucial NOT to overfeed your tortoise. One feeding per day is plenty. ¼
    cup for the first six month of hatchling stage (0-12 months of age). After one year, a juvenile should get no more than ½ to 1 cup of
    loosely packed greens per day. If you aren’t sure, always use less. Adults, of course, get larger rations. If juveniles are overfed, or fed
    as much as they will eat, they can grow far too quickly, causing shell problems, bone problems, and mineral deficiencies. Slow,
    Steady, growth is the key. I use the flat lid of a Tupperware for feeding and easy cleaning. Make sure your tortoise can easily access its
    food bowl. The food bowl should be flat. If the food bowl is slightly elevated, it might help to sink it into the substrate slightly. If the
    tortoise has to climb or reach to get at its food, it might tip itself upside-down and not be able to right itself. If this happens and goes
    undiscovered, the tortoise can suffocate, or overheat and die. Make it a habit of checking on your hatchling tortoise periodically when
    you are home. With very small hatchlings, be cautious of what you put in the enclosure for furnishings or decorations. I didn’t put any
    “pen furniture” in with my Sulcata until after he was at least 1 year old. The reasoning behind this is that when they are very small and
    light, simply climbing up on a rock or wood can cause them to tip themselves, whereas if everything is relatively flat, they have
    nothing in the enclosure with which to tip themselves. After the hatchling stage, you should decorate the environment to be
    stimulating, adding areas where they can hide, bask, rocks and wood to climb on or walk over or through. Keeping your tortoise
    interested in it’s environment will keep it happier and make it more enjoyable when you are watching.
    Diet: The majority of the Sulcata’s diet intake should be from a variety of grasses, weeds, and clovers. NEVER offer iceberg lettuce
    as it is 90% water and presents no nutritional value. A Sulcata tortoise has a high fiber requirement in its diet. To get a better idea of
    what I mean, think of the Sulcata as a cow, they are natural grazing animals. Approximately 75% of the diet should be comprised of
    graze such as the grasses, weeds, and clovers. The best way to offer this type of food is to grow it yourself in dish gardens, planters,
    or in your yard. Please visit The Turtle Café at www.turtlecafe.net where you can order a few pounds of a great pasture seed mix
    which is low in cost and specifically pre-mixed and specially formulated for grazing tortoises. Full growing instructions are shipped
    with the seed mix and are also available on the site. Another great site with even more choices is Turtle Stuff dot com at
    www.turtlestuff.com. These tortoises are grazing animals in the wild, and a graze type of diet is the very best you can provide for
    them. If you do not have the yard space to grow graze at your home, you can use dish gardens or planters to grow it inside, and then
    clip from it for feedings. Do not offer fruits. In place of fruits as a treat, you can offer Opuntia cactus and berries (seasonal). Opuntia
    cactus is also known as "Prickly Pear Cactus” or “Nopales". Opuntia cactus is high in fiber and contains nutrients needed for a
    healthy digestive tract. You can also order organically-grown spiny or spineless Opuntia cactus pads from The Turtle Café website.
    You can plant these pads either outdoors if you live in a warm climate or in a large planter if you live in a cold climate. You will need
    to use a well-draining cactus or succulent soil which you can either get at your local garden store or make yourself by using 1 part
    organic potting soil and 1 part coarse washed playground sand. DO NOT just buy a cactus from your local garden store without first
    making sure it is untreated with pesticides and that is is, in fact, Opuntia. There are about 200 varieties of Opuntia, but they are all
    edible. The remaining 25% of the diet can from mixtures of dark, leafy greens such as turnip greens, mustard greens, collard greens,
    chicory, watercress, hibiscus leaves and blossoms, mulberry leaves, grape leaves, dandelion greens and blossoms (untreated with
    pesticides). If you feed kale and collard greens, only do so once in a while in small portions. Do not offer items such as chard,
    spinach, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, green beans or beans of any kind, corn, sprouts of any kind, tomatoes…or any legume or
    high-protein vegetable. You can get great untreated hibiscus plants from A.J. Calisi at T&C Terrariums at
    http://home.att.net/~a.j.calisi/. A.J. also has other wonderful and naturally-grown terrarium plants if you keep chameleons, or
    other vivarium reptiles. Shake up the tortoise’s diet and give a variety of foods that are acceptable to keep your tortoise interested in
    meals. Each tortoise is different and each tortoise has different food preferences, just like people!
    Supplementation: It is important to use supplements to maintain proper health. I use Tri-Cal 2:1 ratio phosphorous-free calcium
    supplement. I also use Nekton-Rep multi-vitamins. Rep-Cal calcium and Herptivite vitamins are also good choices and probably
    easier to find or order online. You should use 2 parts calcium supplement to 1 part vitamin supplement. You can mix up your own
    pre-rationed calcium/vitamin mixture in a empty salt shaker if you want, to avoid having to open and sprinkle from two different
    containers all the time. Since you are using such a small amount, I just do one big sprinkle of calcium powder and one smaller sprinkle
    of vitamin powder. You should sprinkle the 2:1 ratio mixture on the food at least twice weekly for optimum vitamin supplementation.
    I supplement almost every single day, which works well for me. If the supplements are too powdery on top of the food and the
    tortoise seems wary of eating with all that white stuff on their greens (and you know how tortoises can be), just spray with a little
    water to dissolve the powder into the greens. I use a regular plant mister filled with water, which I keep on hand near my enclosure.
    Outdoor Housing: If you eventually do keep your tortoise in your yard, you want to make sure that your grass is natural, and not
    sprayed with any pesticides or fertilizing agents if possible. If you have a flower or vegetable garden that needs to be fertilized or
    sprayed, you should fence that particular area in. You must take precautions to ensure your fence is sturdy enough to withstand the
    African Spurred Tortoise (Geochelone Sulcata) Care & Info Sheet –Page 4
    digging and burrowing that may take place at an early age, but definitely will take place later in life, which may mean you need to
    have the fence sunk into the ground a few inches. Many people do this now for their dogs that tend to dig, so I'm sure you won't be the
    first to ask your local fence company to sink a fence. Also, be sure to furnish your yard with plants and grasses that are edible for the
    tortoises. For a detailed list of which plants are edible for the tortoises, the California Turtle & Tortoise Club link is a good place to
    start, and is at www.tortoise.org/general/edibplan.html. For a detailed list of which plants are poisonous or toxic, use the
    following link: www.tortoise.org/general/poisonp.html. The Turtle Café website also has some good resources, and the owner
    of that website is a good resource as well. Additionally, you should make sure your tortoise has adequate shelter in case of inclement
    or cold weather. These tortoises can tolerate light, warm rain, it is even good for them to be stimulated by their changing
    environment. However, the Sulcata cannot be left outside for long periods of cold, damp, rainy weather, or in the cold falls and
    winters of northern areas. You can provide an insulated shed with a access ramp for shelter. You should also provide heating in this
    shed with Kane pads (pig farrowing heat pads), and heat lamps, which can be found at www.beanfarm.com. You can find some
    great pictures and ideas for building an outdoor tortoise enclosure at the Tortoise Country web site as well in my links section below.
    As this care sheet is geared mainly toward the new owner, you will need to do a bit of research for your eventual adult tortoise
    housing. There are also great pictures and ideas and information in the links I have provided further below in this care sheet. My
    hatchling was in a small enclosure for 1 year, then a larger enclosure for the next year, now he is in a 3’x3’x6’ indoor enclosure. After
    a few years in different sized enclosures, your Sulcata will outgrow any enclosure altogether and be better suited in an indoor pen,
    outdoor pen, or in your yard (depending on the temperatures and weather where you live). If you are able to provide housing in a
    larger enclosure right away, that is the optimum way to go.
    __________________

    Chad
    www.iherp.com/wafisherman

    Ball Python, 2 Dumiril's Boas, Mexican Boa
    Russian Tortoise, 3 Sulcata Tortoises,
    3 E. Box Turtles and one 3-Toed Box Turtle
    Dog, Cat, Bearded Dragon
    2 Leo Geckos, Tiger Salamander, 2 Water Dragons
    Chickens, Rabbits, Ducks, Pilgram Geese
    2 Olberhasli milking goats
    7 kids and one amazing wife!

  10. #10
    BPnet Veteran BallPython17's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-10-2008
    Location
    miami, florida
    Posts
    394
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
    Images: 17

    Re: Sulcatta Tortoise diet ?

    Aite. And thanks for posting it for me. There is some really useful info there.
    1.0 cinny, 1.0 pastel, 1.2 spider, 0.3 normals, 1.0 mojo, 1.0 albino, 1.0 fire, 1.1 yellowbelly, 1.0 het. pied, 1.0 lesser



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1