The quarantine process

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Originally Posted by jjsnakedude

If I were to build a small rack just for quarantine, i would have to restart quarantine for any of the snakes in it if a new snake came in right?

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Yes, you would. Might be easier to not have a QT rack system, but just separate tubs that you can put in different places. That's what I'm going to have to do because my rack system is in our bedroom and I'll have to put my new snakes in a separate room.

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Originally Posted by AcePythons

Yes, you would. Might be easier to not have a QT rack system, but just separate tubs that you can put in different places. That's what I'm going to have to do because my rack system is in our bedroom and I'll have to put my new snakes in a separate room.

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Im thinking that you would use UTHs for those. Correct me if im wrong.

How would you check for mouth rot?

Buy a speculum set, open their mouth, and look inside.

This is a real question so go easy if I sound like an FNG:D...I didnt see anything above about immunization shots...is this an option for snakes?

Unfortunately, it is not. Preliminary testing for paramyxovirus vaccine showed a high failure rate--it did not offer significant protection. They are still working on it. To the best of my knowledge, they are not working on vaccines for any other snake diseases at present.

Some individuals in the UK have apparently experimented with giving their snakes Newcastle Disease vaccinations, and reported that this offered partial protection against paramyxovirus.

I understand the quarantine proccess but why keep the snakes in there for so long if they show no signs of illness after the 1st month?

Hi,

Because some problems can take longer than a month to show. ;)


dr del

The quarantine process and how I failed it.

Like most keepers with modest collections I practiced a strict quarantine regime, in which a 90 day wait period was practiced. New additions were housed at the opposite ends of the house with their own caging and tools (quarantine animals were always worked after the main collection). Nitrile gloves where used at all times and clean up procedures included changing clothes and showering. In cases of suspect animals fecals were collected and ran. In one instance a young Transpeco Ratsnake developed an IR within two days of arrival. The animal was taken to my exotic vet and administered injections of fluids and antibiotics (baytril). Upon recovery, the quarantine period reset to 90 days. I considered this strict, and it was a successful plan for many years.

How my quarantine procedure failed was not through the typical exchange of mites or disease through newly acquired snakes. Rather, my rodent colony. During much of last summer I maintained a small rodent colony of 1.5 mice for the purpose of live pinks. I tried to maintain this colony in the garage, away from my personal collection. However, on hot summer days I had to bring the mice indoors to avoid perish. I did not think of transmission between mice and snake until late July when I noticed one of my boas soaking. Upon closer examination and to my unfortunate surprise in his cage I found mites.

Two of my visions (cages) were positive for mites. Those cages and animals (boa and 17 year old corn snake) were isolated and my main collection seemed spared. I used Nix for a mite treatment and it seemed to work successfully in the first round of treatment - to be sure I did two rounds one month apart. It wasn't until 5 months later I found another live mite - in a new cage (one that never had it in the first place). This has been a pain, but it could always be worse. Now half my collection resides in the house (being treated for mites), while the other half (that was never in the same room and to this day has been negative for mites the entire time, resides at a friends).

HARD LESSON LEARNED. The mice were obtained for a nearby reptile breeder / retailer (will not name). It was a month before I put two and two together. Despite and strict quarantine process and clean rodent management, I failed. No animals were lost (thus far) to the treatments or the mites, put lesson learned my friends.

Quarantine all animals not just incoming herps.

Heavily Addicted to Ball pythons... But.... Is all goood
1.0 Albino ; 0.1 Bumble-Bee ; 1.1 Lesser Platinum ; 1.0 Clown ; 1.1 Butter ; 1.1 Caramel Albino ; 1.0 Pied ; 0.1 Pastel ; 1.1 Lemon Blast ; 1.0 Super Blast


I'm incredibly new to owning a ball python. I don't know a whole lot about morphs vs normals...or anything much about BP's at all. My fiance and I bought our 5 yr old grandson an 18" normal BP a couple of weeks ago.

My question to you is this: "What do the numbers with decimal points after the type of morph indicate?" Example: 1.0 Albino; 0.1 Bumble-Bee; etc. I've seen multiple users on this site post names and numbers at the end of their posts...I gather it has something to do with the snakes in their own personal collections....but what exactly does "1.1" indicate vs "0.25". Any answer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Sincerely,

NaNa