Feed Snake & Return to Primary Tank or ...

[rafacacho]

I think 80%/90% of my balls wont eat if I put them in another container. Balls are shy.

[VictoryWon4Him]

Thanks to all your replies, my wife and I are getting more and more excited about getting another tank to separate our babies for their comfort/security. Last night, we were able to find a small tank to use temporary so that our babies are now in 2 separate homes. We're also keeping an eye out at Thrift stores, C' list, etc. to hopefully come across a good deal in our area for a larger tank. No rush, but we know that she's going to quickly outgrow the one that she's in now. So, I wanted to know what some of you, that have a large tank split into two, like compared to having two separate tanks. My thinking is that having a large say 100 gallon tank, split into two using a divider, would be nice so that they both can have 50g each. That way, we can put in plenty of hides, bamboo, etc. so that they can have plenty of freedom yet feel safe, along with UTH's of course for hot spots and plenty of room for cold spots as well. However, having 2 completely separate 50 gallons would be nice as well. If one doesn't eat when the other eats, the one that ate would prol be licking it's chops smelling the mouse in the other side of the split tank. Or, since they go to the bathroom at different times, we'd be cleaning one half of the tank and possibly disturb the other snake if we use the split tank. 2 completely separate tanks would eliminate these examples. What do you all think: Large split tank using a divider vs 2 separate tanks to put each in separately? BTW - What do you all think of ZooMeds UTH? I've had one for only 3yrs and it's no longer working. I would think they would last much longer than that since my original UTH from over 20yrs ago is still working well.

[Eric Alan]

I think you've just hit the trifecta of most common questions! First separate feeding tubs, then housing together, now we're going to get into UTHs and thermostats!

I'm on my lunch break at work right now, but if no one else gives you a solid reply, I'll put in my 2 cents worth for ya. I'm sure someone will help out sooner than later though. This is one of our favorite topics.

[artgecko]

I like to use ultratherm heat pads. I find that they heat more evenly than zoomed and I once had a zoomed uth that would continue to heat after power was cut off (on/off type thermostat) and would get about 9 degrees above the temp it was supposed to be.

For a thermostat, the best one that most agree on is a herpstat. I use a herpstat 4 to control 4 seperate uths set at different temps and love it. They are easy to use and reliable. But.....they aren't cheap. If you have a split tank and are controlling 1 UTH (placed under the center of the divider so that each section has a warm spot near the center where the divider is), you could use a thermostat with 1 probe (like a herpstat 1.) If you get two tanks, with different UTHs, you will either need 2 thermostats with 1 probe / channel each or a thermostat that will control 2 UTHs (like the herpstat 2). The best "on / off" type thermostat that most use is the hydrofarm. I am currently using two of them and have had no problems.

I would suggest that you look into a pvc cage.. I don't own one myself, but I know that many here swear by their ability to hold humidity / heat and secure your snake.. Plus they make a great looking display. AP is one of the popular manufacturers and they offer units that you can put a removable divider into as well. I think many people use the T8 or the T10 with BPs. Please note that you have to assemble these cages and they sell heat tape to go with them (which you would hook into a thermostat and control like a UTH). It may end up being cheaper for you to use one of these with a divider than buying and fixing up two glass tanks... Plus it'll be easier to clean.

Good luck with your BPs!

[Eric Alan]

Yada yada... good info... yada yada.

See, OP! What'd I tell ya.

[PitOnTheProwl]

Wow............. got the whole Springer show in one morning and just because I read through all the thoughts, truths and some ignorance I feel compelled to post as well.

I will start off with the truth: What works in my house might not work in yours.

Move them to feed if you wish, doesn't really make a difference either way as long as your animal is eating. FYI I could view getting tagged moving your snake after feeding as a husbandry issue. Your removed them from THEIR environment so not only are they hungry but defensive too. LoL
Just think how much fun people will have moving their snakes on feeding night when your collection grows to say 20 or 40?

Yes, they can be housed together but yet again if you are not sure of how to read your animals or proper housing then it is not the greatest idea.

THG heat tape is a fraction f the cost of pre made heat pads, JUST REMEMBER ALL OF THEM NEED TO BE REGULATED!!!!!!
Thermostats are your choice. I have a Helix and several VE-200s. Its all your choice, you really don't have to try and keep up with the Jones.

On the final note: Lowes, Home Depot and Walmart are the greatest reptile suppy stores on the planet.

[The Golem]

On the final note: Lowes, Home Depot and Walmart are the greatest reptile suppy stores on the planet.

Totally agree. This manual spray bottle is $9.99 at Canadian Tire (hardware store). The exact same bottle in a "For Reptile terrariums" box in a pet store is $14.99

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sp...l#.VC05S_k7uSo

Same applies for dimmers, therm/hygrometers, bulbs, timers, power bars and so many other items.

[Gio]

This is one smoking thread.

It does however look like things have settled a bit and become civil.

I think KMG's example is perfect, and if you want to kick it up a notch or two there are plenty of folks here that have collections of large retics, anacondas, bigger boas, and burms.

I'd be hard pressed to believe they use a "feed box".

KMG is a very good example of somebody who SHOULD own a big snake. Somebody that understands the food response, the size of a particular animal, and the risks involved during feeding. Most all of the bites we hear about are feeding mistakes remember.

There is no NEED to feed in another enclosure. I guess if you are concerned about ingestion of substrate, which happens in the wild without incident, or cleaning up a nice orderly tank, you could make a case for it.

The thought process of "When I open the door I'll be bitten because the snake expects food" VS "The snake will allow me to open the door, move it, and then go into feeding mode" makes no sense and is a myth.

With that line of thinking one could say taking the snake out for simple handling would make it "THINK" it's going to eat. There is no step by step reasoning involved with snakes.

These animals respond to the smell of food, movements, heat, vibrations and primitive instincts. If your snake is hungry enough or under fed, and strikes at the glass when you walk by, you won't be particularly interested in moving it elsewhere so it can eat. You will more than likely have teeth in you if you do.

No snake THINKS, "Here come my master's hands, I'm moved, now I'm in a my special tank, and now I can eat".

Everybody has a method that works well for them and that's fine. But the truth is, these animals are very complex and are still misunderstood.

Some snakes become stressed easily which is why almost every intelligent, experienced keeper/breeder has a time tested method for keeping them secure. That security is provided by making their environment secure. Individuals can and do vary, but snakes will feel most secure eating from where they are comfortable and that's what we want and more importantly what the animal needs.

Though this may not directly apply to the O/P, the royal python is a very good example of this. There are many that are so picky or stressed they will only eat in the dark with thawed prey left in their secure enclosure after everybody has left the room or they simply won't eat at all.

Not one experienced keeper will advise that a snake like that should be moved to a feeding tank. A snake like that needs to be housed in a small enclosure with all of the basic needs met, and you will find in many cases where snakes that have suddenly stopped feeding, will resume feeding if that same method is used. Moving an animal into a plastic bin that is more than likely wide open in a lighted room and totally changing it's environment is the complete opposite of the most common method for getting a snake eating and feeling secure. Which is why even a snake that has no stress issues should be left in it's enclosure as well.

There are so many variables involved with snakes, and it's impossible to cover everything, or every situation.

However, the BASIC guidelines for housing these animals are practiced, tried and true and pretty damn universal. SECURE ENVIRONMENT with proper husbandry is the number 1 on every list. Removing a snake from that during a critical periods isn't recommended and certainly not NEEDED.



If you are worried about being bitten by your snake when you open the cage door, use the precautions that the retic keepers use. Hook train, not feeding tank.

[Gio]

If we change this topic to venomous snakes for fun, I'd go out on a limb and say the separate feeding enclosure technique is not gonna fly LOL!

[VictoryWon4Him]

If we change this topic to venomous snakes for fun, I'd go out on a limb and say the separate feeding enclosure technique is not gonna fly LOL!

All of the answers in this thread have been valuable. However, this response ^^^ pretty much stops all arguments. lol As many have said, we all have our different opinions, reasons, comfort level, etc, but as you said Gio, the fact that Hots aren't relocated for feeding makes the most sense. We'll be feeding our babies in their main tanks ONLY from now on. Thanks!!