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  1. #21
    BPnet Veteran MrLang's Avatar
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    Sometimes if they're too active it's a sign of stress. A hiding ball python is a healthy ball python. This is why so many people are trying to let you know that BPs are inherently not display animals. Once you get all this stuff straight, you'll never see your snake unless you're up in the middle of the night or feeding/handling... and that's a good thing.

    Glad to see good decisions being made
    Dreamtime Exotics -- Check it out!
    Ball Pythons, Bearded Dragons, Fancy Rats

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  3. #22
    BPnet Veteran jbean7916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manasha-Bogo View Post
    One other thing. My male likes to climb. He usually climbs up on a hammock I threw into the 55g on the cool side. But everything I've read says balls don't like to climb. So why does he climb so much? Thx!


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    He may be climbing to make an escape attempt or he may feel more secure in the hammock than in thee hides he has on the ground. Balls will often take security over comfort.

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  4. #23
    Registered User Manasha-Bogo's Avatar
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    I know balls hide. When I used to go to the herp stores it was common to not see a thing in a display labeled ball python. My male doesn't hide much. My female did. Which has actually made me worried for the male of late.

    I like a glass front because it's easy to look in and see what's going on. Even if it's not much. I'm OK with that. From what I've read it may take a while for these PVC cages to arrive. I'm doing to get tubs for the my snakes tomorrow. In order to get heating quickly, like tomorrow, I'll have to go back to the herp store. No idea what options I'm going to find there.


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  5. #24
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    Go with the T8 with sliding glass doors. The extra height does nothing for BP's. The sliding glass doors are bigger than the swing doors (so you can see in better) plus the swind doors are made from plastic which means that they will warp and scratch easily. Plus the T8 with sliding glass doors ships in about a week vs 6 weeks for most other T series cages.

    To heat the cage the flexwatt belly heat should be enough alone unless your room stays below 70 degrees. In which case you will want to get a radiant heat panel.

    For lighting the cage just get the white floressent lights sold by AP. if you are using the divider then you will need to get 2 lights.
    Last edited by The Serpent Merchant; 04-29-2012 at 06:19 PM.
    ~Aaron

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  6. #25
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    Re: Need advice about heating a 4' wide tank

    Quote Originally Posted by Manasha-Bogo View Post
    Alright. I'm scrapping the tanks and going with a PVC cage. I'm on a long ride back home now and so I'm trying to get it all planned out in the next few hours.

    I'm so excited!! Lol!

    So I'm thinking of going with the T10, black, with swing out doors, pop in/out divider, and door locks (kids).

    Two undecided things; heating and lighting.

    Lighting: I want lighting, but would a fluorescent light throw off the temps in there? Or should I go with LED??

    Heating: radiant heat panels sounds more like what I need to get ambient heat. The basicreptiles site says that a 40 watt rhp is good for a 2'x4'x1'. But this won't work in a divided tank, right? I'm gonna need one for each side. In a 2'x4'x15" cage, will I need two 28 watt rhps?

    I also want to use a thin layer if substrate on the bottom.



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    Yes if you are using a divider in the tank you will need 2 radiant heat panels. The 28 watt would be best.

    The fluorescent lights do raise the cage temps slightly but not enough to worry about.

    As I said in my previous post. The T8 would be better than a T10. If for no other reason the fact that you can get a T8 6 times faster + it's cheaper
    ~Aaron

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  7. #26
    Registered User Manasha-Bogo's Avatar
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    Thanks I wasn't sure if I should go with a T8 or T10 so was going to err on side of bigger size.

    I liked the sliding doors at first because I read a couple people's experience feeding their snakes were easier with the sliding doors. But I also read that the snake could get stuck between the glass and the cage. Since my sakes are so small, is there something I should use to stop them from wedging themselves in this area?

    OK, so I think I have everything i need on this list...

    - One T8 (48w x 12t x 24d) with sliding glass doors, 1 lock, 2 lights, 1 divider.
    - Two Reptile Basics 28 Watt Radiant Heat Panels.
    - One Herpstat 2.
    - Two small hides (the ones I have are too big).

    I keep reading that the pvc cage could take a bit to arrive; "weeks" according to some posts. So for a short term solution, I'm gathering the following:

    - Two 15qt plastic bins with covers (got them tonight).
    - Heating... not sure yet. I think heat cables is in order here which I can get at the local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot), but I have no idea what size, how to stick it to the tub without creating a fire hazard or if I need a thermostat. (common sense says yes?)

    I watched a video a couple days ago on how to make a "rub" as the British call it, but I can't find it to save my life. I'll probably find it before anyone answers, but where can I find instructions on setting up the plastic tub for a snake ?

  8. #27
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    I currently have 4 T8's, T12, and a T11 all with sliding glass doors. Yes snakes can get inbetween the glass but I have yet to have one get stuck. This is more a issue with Vision cages.

    Your list looks good. And a T8 Will ship out in 10 days or less. Be warned that they don't ship the glass doors with the rest of the cage, they usually arrive 2 days later. This is so you can seal the cage (with the included sealant) and let it dry/air out.
    ~Aaron

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  9. #28
    Registered User Manasha-Bogo's Avatar
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    sounds good. I still want to set up the plastic tubs for them because unless my female is still in bad shape, I want to bring her home.

  10. #29
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    This thread should show you everything to get a tub set up:

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...Basics...*DUW*

    Flexwatt or any other commercial UTH is best for heating tubs. Heat cable is a huge pain. And yes a thermostat is needed.
    Last edited by The Serpent Merchant; 04-29-2012 at 10:24 PM.
    ~Aaron

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  11. #30
    Registered User Manasha-Bogo's Avatar
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    thank you!!!!

    The herpstat2 should arrive on wednesday.
    Everything else has been ordered except for whatever I'm going to end up using to heat the tubs. I want to try to find that locally if possible.

    Thank you everyone for helping me with this painful process. No doubt as painful for you as it has been for me. I think I'm finally on the right track here. And I'll consider all this worth while if my female survives although I'm sure the male will be happier soon too.
    The fact that the female is gaining weight gives me hope.

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